Matteo Marobin has sent Three Degrees of Separation (9a+) in Céüse. “Can't describe how sick this route is... It's just perfect. Definitely a dream come true.” His full story of the ascent describes great comittment and includes a 15 meter fall, his eager to impress Janja and much more. (c) Titouan Marobin

“I was at the crag when Jules sent "Three Degrees of Separation" last June. I was working on "Pornographie," and all I could think about was finishing it so I could try "Three Degrees" myself. It looked amazing to climb, especially the three big dynos. I made up my mind right then it would be my next project. Besides, there had only been four ascents so far, which motivated me even more. I imagined adding my name alongside legends who have made climbing history: Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Lucien Martinez, and Jules Marchaland. It made me dream.

Then, after sending "Pornographie" in early June, I went back to Céüse in mid-July to explore and start working on "Three Degrees of Separation." At first, I was incredibly excited, I had watched Chris Sharma’s video and dreamed about this route so many times that I was eager to see if it was as amazing as I imagined. I wasn’t disappointed, in fact, I was immediately blown away by the beauty of the route and the magnitude it exuded. The first time I found myself at the start of the first dyno (the furthest of the three), it felt like I had to make a two-meter leap to reach the hold, it seemed so far away… The starting holds and footholds are okay, you just have to go for it as hard as you can and hope to reach high enough to catch the swing. Since the cliff is at altitude and there’s nothing behind for miles, every time I made that dyno, I felt a rush of adrenaline. It really felt like I was flying and staying in the air for several seconds. So, I unlocked all the moves and succeeded in all three dynos on my first session. I was extremely happy because the route was beautiful, sensational, and suited my skills. From then on, the real effort could begin. By the third session, I was getting comfortable with the sections and finding effective methods. During the fifth session, I managed to link all three dynos in a row. I then started trying from the ground up. I would fall on the first crux (two low percentage moves on three-finger holds). Then I’d start from the beginning of the crux to try and link the first dyno (two quickdraws higher), but each time, I was just a few centimetres short for reaching the hold. However, during the seventh session, the last quickdraw before the first dyno (which was a bit worn) came unclipped and existed out of the bolt during my fall. As a result, I took a fifteen-meter fall down to the level of the first quickdraw and landed hard on my right thigh (which was not very convenient for pushing with all my strength on the dynos…).

Anyway, it was a good time to leave and go back to training. I went to Voiron and stayed with the Etchar family, who hosted me in their Airbnb. We trained in the mornings until early afternoon, and then we napped in front of the Olympics for the rest of the day. A big thanks to the whole family for that week it was awesome! Upon returning to Céüse in early August, I felt good on the route. I immediately managed to complete the first dyno from the crux. It was the first time I had succeeded that, and it represented a significant milestone in the process of working on this route. I then resumed trying from the ground. I finally managed to pass the low percentage crux with the three-finger holds, and I felt comfortable with the second crux with small crimps, so I reached the first dyno, but I was still a few centimetres short of grabbing the jug. Even though the attempts were encouraging, it was hard to believe in a potential ascent this summer. Sometimes I was strong in the sections and linked several dynos from the crux, while other times I could fall everywhere because the route physically exhausted me. On top of that, I struggled to recover energy between the second and third dynos. Even if I rested for a long time, my energy would deplete as soon as I started the five moves to set up, and I couldn’t give enough energy to leap and reach the hold. Anyway, it was already time to leave Céüse.

Next stop: Innsbruck for two weeks of training. During these two weeks, I couldn’t stop thinking about the route. All I had in mind was to improve my endurance and recovery ability so I could regenerate at each rest (especially between the dynos). I felt my form improving with each session. I was eager to return to the route. After two days of rest, I was ready to give my final push of the summer. On my very first attempt, I managed to link the entire end of the route starting from the crimpy crux. Now, I was certain, I could send it this season. I just needed to put in the perfect run to complete it from the ground up. I had a week ahead of me before I had to return to Toulouse for the start of the University. The time frame was tight, it would be tough, but it seemed possible. The only drawback was I fell half of the time in the aleatory move at the start. It drove me crazy because there wasn’t really a way to improve it and it significantly slowed down my progress.

On Friday, August 30th (after falling once again at the same low move), I finally succeeded in the first crux. At that time, I switched to a different mode. I was finally going to unleash all the rage I had accumulated because of that move. I was hungry, so I powered through the crimpy crux and made it to the rest. I felt good and was in the right mindset. I knew Janja was on the ground, watching. From that moment on, my ego took over, I had to impress her. At the set up of the first dyno I knew I’d smash the jump. I thought, "I'll get this for sure." I gave it everything I had, and I stuck it! I was already thrilled, but I had to stay focused because the hardest part was just beginning. Fortunately, I could feel the other climbers on the ground starting to believe in me, and that was going to carry me through to the end. I felt like I was recovering well and was confident about the second dyno, which I hit as planned.

Now, only the last dyno remained. I started to overthink it because I often fell there during practice attempts. I wasn’t sure when to leave the rest, afraid of starting too soon. So, I told myself, "Maybe I'll never make it back here again, I have to give it everything I’ve got to avoid any regrets." So, I pushed on with grit. The five setup moves went well. I gave it all I had left to leap and reach the final hold, and I managed to stick three fingers in the jug and stop after several one-arm swings. It was unreal, I honestly don't know how I held on.

Anyway, the hardest part was done, all that remained was to clip the anchor three quickdraws higher. Even though it wasn’t nearly as difficult, I was still nervous because I had never really taken the time to check the moves, and I definitely didn’t want to make a mistake. But thankfully, everything went smoothly. I took a few seconds after clipping the chains to take it all in, then I let out a huge shout of joy. I never imagined I’d complete the end of the route on my very first time sticking the first dyno from the ground. Yet, that’s exactly what happened. So, we immediately went to celebrate at the pizzeria.

This route was my summer project, but foremost a dream line that I absolutely wanted to climb one day. I'm proud to have done it so quickly (17 sessions) and so early (at 20 years old). Thanks to everyone who supported me during this project. Thanks to all the people I met at the crag who cheered so loudly. It was a game-changer! Special thanks to Lee Min Young, and to Lukas, Konrad, and Thomas, three Italians who came to watch some actions on their rest day. They knew I was alone and offered to belay me. These kinds of unexpected meetings are incredible and make the story even more special.”

Stefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9a in two weeks, Brunhilde low start (9a) in Flatanger. It starts with the hardest part of Thor's hammer to avoid the jumar start of Brunhilde L2 (8c). ”I did it in a few days, first, just the 8c section on my second go, and then I started working a bit on the first part. It is a long route with few cruxes, a good training.”

What is your project status of Silence? Have you done all the sequences?
Yes, but just separately. No great progress so far, still haven't tried it from the ground. The hardest part is starting a bit before then the first crack crux and climb it. I go with the right foot in the crack instead of left, and use some crimps to turn again up, but the rest is very similar!

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Andy Gullsten, with some ten 9a's under his belt, reports on Instagram that he has completed Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger after a fight lasting nearly an hour. "So happy I climbed this route! It’s a king line in the cave and for sure my hardest send to date!" (c) Tor Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what goes through your mind being in upside land for an hour?
I’ve done some of the other long routes in the cave like Sledgehammer (8c+) and Sledgehammer (8c+) that also take quite a lot of time to climb 😁 but for Thor’s was quite different because the first part tires you out so much that the second part of the route feels sooo much harder. I was working on it for around 2 weeks in June and then had to come back in August to finish it.

I mean there’s not much going through my mind other than, don’t mess it up because the hard part is already done 😅 I fell twice at the end of Thor’s, once on the last rail and once on the jugs 1m from the anchor.. 🙈

What is coming up next?
🤷🏻‍♂️ need to plan some trips in the winter! Any suggestions?

What about Yosemite?
Not yet 😄... but psyched to follow the trip of Hannes [Puman] and Matilda [Söderlund]! Keen for more hard sport climbs and maybe some short bouldering trips.

Janja Garnbret won her 29th Lead World Cup title and she was superior in all three rounds. Over the 25 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has competed in she has never placed lower than second in any Boulder or Lead event and she has won all Combined events. Runner-up was Jessica Pilz who got the bronze in Paris.

“The crowd is absolutely phenomenal. Honestly, a few years ago when the World Cup was in Kranj I know I had a hard time performing there because of the cheering and maybe the extra pressure to perform in front of the home crowd, but I’ve gotten used to it and now I love climbing in front of the home crowd with all the kids screaming and cheering. I absolutely enjoyed myself on the wall today.

I’m still a bit frustrated because I didn’t top. I enjoyed the route a lot and I did everything right, no unnecessary moves and I felt like I was cruising. Then, it was just a millisecond of not being focussed and that’s why I slipped. I was looking forward to the last jump, but oh well, I have something to show next time.”

Olympic gold medal winner Toby Roberts won ahead of Sorato Anraku, the silver medalist in Paris. Over the last five Lead World Cups, Toby’s worst result is #4 and he comments;

“The route was really, really tricky. I was a bit nervous especially at the start as there were a few sketchy moves. The start, and the press move I wasn’t really sure about. But my whole goal of the competition was to enjoy it and that was the perfect finish. I gave it my maximum fight on that route, I couldn’t have had any more moves even if I wanted to so I’m really happy I got the most out of myself.”

Lucia Dörffel, who was #16 in the Paris Olympics, has done Father and Son (8c) in Frankenjura.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was more of a side project. I came to Frankenjura to just enjoy a few days here because I ended my comp season after Villars. It was really warm and I remembered this route I tried a few years ago. I checked it out one day and could send it the other day just in a few tries. I was happy about the send since I felt really tired after the long season. But Frankenjura is always so lovely for a short vacation.

Talking side project, do you have any big projects this autumn?
Unfortunately not because I’m injured and I need surgery at the beginning of October. I ruptured a ligament in my right foot in April two weeks before the WC in Salt Lake City and the OQs. The compromise was to try to qualify for Paris and get it done afterwards at the end of the season.

How has this affected your climbing this season?
It was challenging. Especially mentally in the beginning because I felt in such good shape and then I had to learn how to land on my foot when falling from boulders and also jumping on my foot. It’s also not that stable and hurts sometimes because my tendon is now sniping over my ankle quite often because the ligaments can’t hold it anymore.

Eva Hammelmüller has over three days in Rofan sent Happiness (8c), Giftige Goas (8b+) and Restless (8b+). (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the 8c ascent?
Happiness” was established by Markus Haid, and is definitely one of the most beautiful lines in the area. The 40m long route follows a steep, impressive prow that gives you a very exposed feeling while climbing. The crux is powerful as well as delicate, and you really want to make sure to arrive there without being too pumped😅. So glad I could finish this climb within 4 tries!!

Kathy Choong has sent the 300 metres Zahir (8b+) at wendenstöcke, in “eco-point” style reaching the crag by bike, together with Eline Le Menestrel. The 32-year-old is a former competition climber with two 9a’s and several other hard MP’s up to 8b+ under her belt. (c) Julien Nadiras

“What a day! On September 2, we woke up at 3:50 am and started climbing around 6:15 am. I felt fresh in the 2 first pitches (6c, 8a). Then on my 2 first goes in the 3rd pitch (8b+), I fell in the crux section. The sun was already hitting the wall but I knew that it could be my last chance as our trip was coming to an end and the weather looked unstable for the next days, the pressure was on my side. On my 3rd attempt, I gave everything, passed the crux section, fought super hard, climbed the 2nd crux…and fell at the very last move just below the anchor.

I was so disappointed to fall so close to the top and with a fingersplit, the situation looked desperate and very dramatic. But somehow, something clicked in my mind and I knew I could do it, no matter the circumstances! I took a rest and at 12:30 pm I went for a very last go. My fingertip was bleeding (not ideal on those tiny little crimps), I was climbing in full sun but I felt confident. Eline was cheering so much, I felt her energy coming to me, I fought really hard on each move, almost fell again at the same last move but finally sticked the last hold and clipped the chains. I couldn’t believe what just happened. But it was not over, I still had 5 pitches (7c, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 6c and not the easiest one in term of run-outs) before the top with no more skin nor energy. Fortunately I could send the last pitches and we made it to the top at 6 pm. At 9:50 pm, we were back at the parking lot, exhausted but with a big smile on our face.

Eline also tried really hard, she was close to send the 8a and made promising attempts in the 8b+. She was definitely the best supportive partner I could have wished for, nothing would have been possible without her!”