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Andy Gullsten, with some ten 9a's under his belt, reports on Instagram that he has completed Thor's Hammer 9a (+) in Flatanger after a fight lasting nearly an hour. "So happy I climbed this route! It’s a king line in the cave and for sure my hardest send to date!" (c) Tor Johnson

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what goes through your mind being in upside land for an hour?
I’ve done some of the other long routes in the cave like Sledgehammer (8c+) and Sledgehammer (8c+) that also take quite a lot of time to climb 😁 but for Thor’s was quite different because the first part tires you out so much that the second part of the route feels sooo much harder. I was working on it for around 2 weeks in June and then had to come back in August to finish it.

I mean there’s not much going through my mind other than, don’t mess it up because the hard part is already done 😅 I fell twice at the end of Thor’s, once on the last rail and once on the jugs 1m from the anchor.. 🙈

What is coming up next?
🤷🏻‍♂️ need to plan some trips in the winter! Any suggestions?

What about Yosemite?
Not yet 😄... but psyched to follow the trip of Hannes [Puman] and Matilda [Söderlund]! Keen for more hard sport climbs and maybe some short bouldering trips.

Janja Garnbret won her 29th Lead World Cup title and she was superior in all three rounds. Over the 25 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has competed in she has never placed lower than second in any Boulder or Lead event and she has won all Combined events. Runner-up was Jessica Pilz who got the bronze in Paris.

“The crowd is absolutely phenomenal. Honestly, a few years ago when the World Cup was in Kranj I know I had a hard time performing there because of the cheering and maybe the extra pressure to perform in front of the home crowd, but I’ve gotten used to it and now I love climbing in front of the home crowd with all the kids screaming and cheering. I absolutely enjoyed myself on the wall today.

I’m still a bit frustrated because I didn’t top. I enjoyed the route a lot and I did everything right, no unnecessary moves and I felt like I was cruising. Then, it was just a millisecond of not being focussed and that’s why I slipped. I was looking forward to the last jump, but oh well, I have something to show next time.”

Olympic gold medal winner Toby Roberts won ahead of Sorato Anraku, the silver medalist in Paris. Over the last five Lead World Cups, Toby’s worst result is #4 and he comments;

“The route was really, really tricky. I was a bit nervous especially at the start as there were a few sketchy moves. The start, and the press move I wasn’t really sure about. But my whole goal of the competition was to enjoy it and that was the perfect finish. I gave it my maximum fight on that route, I couldn’t have had any more moves even if I wanted to so I’m really happy I got the most out of myself.”

Lucia Dörffel, who was #16 in the Paris Olympics, has done Father and Son (8c) in Frankenjura.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was more of a side project. I came to Frankenjura to just enjoy a few days here because I ended my comp season after Villars. It was really warm and I remembered this route I tried a few years ago. I checked it out one day and could send it the other day just in a few tries. I was happy about the send since I felt really tired after the long season. But Frankenjura is always so lovely for a short vacation.

Talking side project, do you have any big projects this autumn?
Unfortunately not because I’m injured and I need surgery at the beginning of October. I ruptured a ligament in my right foot in April two weeks before the WC in Salt Lake City and the OQs. The compromise was to try to qualify for Paris and get it done afterwards at the end of the season.

How has this affected your climbing this season?
It was challenging. Especially mentally in the beginning because I felt in such good shape and then I had to learn how to land on my foot when falling from boulders and also jumping on my foot. It’s also not that stable and hurts sometimes because my tendon is now sniping over my ankle quite often because the ligaments can’t hold it anymore.

Eva Hammelmüller has over three days in Rofan sent Happiness (8c), Giftige Goas (8b+) and Restless (8b+). (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the 8c ascent?
Happiness” was established by Markus Haid, and is definitely one of the most beautiful lines in the area. The 40m long route follows a steep, impressive prow that gives you a very exposed feeling while climbing. The crux is powerful as well as delicate, and you really want to make sure to arrive there without being too pumped😅. So glad I could finish this climb within 4 tries!!

Kathy Choong has sent the 300 metres Zahir (8b+) at wendenstöcke, in “eco-point” style reaching the crag by bike, together with Eline Le Menestrel. The 32-year-old is a former competition climber with two 9a’s and several other hard MP’s up to 8b+ under her belt. (c) Julien Nadiras

“What a day! On September 2, we woke up at 3:50 am and started climbing around 6:15 am. I felt fresh in the 2 first pitches (6c, 8a). Then on my 2 first goes in the 3rd pitch (8b+), I fell in the crux section. The sun was already hitting the wall but I knew that it could be my last chance as our trip was coming to an end and the weather looked unstable for the next days, the pressure was on my side. On my 3rd attempt, I gave everything, passed the crux section, fought super hard, climbed the 2nd crux…and fell at the very last move just below the anchor.

I was so disappointed to fall so close to the top and with a fingersplit, the situation looked desperate and very dramatic. But somehow, something clicked in my mind and I knew I could do it, no matter the circumstances! I took a rest and at 12:30 pm I went for a very last go. My fingertip was bleeding (not ideal on those tiny little crimps), I was climbing in full sun but I felt confident. Eline was cheering so much, I felt her energy coming to me, I fought really hard on each move, almost fell again at the same last move but finally sticked the last hold and clipped the chains. I couldn’t believe what just happened. But it was not over, I still had 5 pitches (7c, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 6c and not the easiest one in term of run-outs) before the top with no more skin nor energy. Fortunately I could send the last pitches and we made it to the top at 6 pm. At 9:50 pm, we were back at the parking lot, exhausted but with a big smile on our face.

Eline also tried really hard, she was close to send the 8a and made promising attempts in the 8b+. She was definitely the best supportive partner I could have wished for, nothing would have been possible without her!”

Alex Megos, who two weeks ago did Change (9b+) in just five sessions, reports on Instagram that he has completed Move (9b) in Flatanger. Megos suggests 9b/+ as also Seb Bouin did, doing the second ascent in 2019. On the same day, Alex also sent Illusionist (9a). (c) Henning Wang

"I climbed both routes with two kneepads and at this point I'd like to give props to @adam.ondra for making the FA's of those routes without kneepads. The actual crux of Move doesn't change for me, but to get to the crux is definitely easier with kneepads. Absolutely inspiring that Adam did the FA more than 10 years ago 🙌🏼. He could have given it 9b+ without kneepads in my opinion."

What was the key for the send and how many sessions were needed?
This took 9 sessions. I had a very good day on the route on day 3, climbing all the hard part, starting almost from the ground. That was a little unexpected but suddenly I knew I could do it. But I also stopped refining my beta for a little bit. I'm the end I think the key to sending was to refine the beta a little more and to learn how to recover on the shake outs.