Nathan Phillips, who the last year has sent his two first 8C’s, has completed Beautiful Mind (8C) in Peak District.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Really psyched to climb this one as it’s probably the hardest boulder I’ve finished. It climbs the start section of Trance Trance (8C) which I climbed back in June. This section is maybe hard 8A/V11 then 2 or 3 new moves of around 7C/V9 to link into all the hard climbing of Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14 which I climbed about 8 years ago.

It took me 14 sessions since climbing Trance to complete it. About twice as many as Trance took. I started off re-learning the moves on Dandelion Mind as it had been years since I’d climbed it, then as the sessions went on it was just about making bigger and bigger links until eventually getting it done before the end of the limestone season.

What is coming up next?
I’m heading back to Switzerland in November to try to finish a 6 year project.

Which project is it and how many sessions have you put in?
The sit project to Fake Pamplemousse (8A) in Brione. I honestly have no idea… in the hundreds.

How will you prepare for your next trip and how close have you come?
I have a replica to train on and I’m doing very specific conditioning exercises. I’ve climbed it in 2 overlapping halves but haven’t got into the stand. I’ve done the stand 100’s of times so I’m reasonably confident I’ll do it when I get into it. All the difficulty is getting to the stand. 2 hard hand moves and a hard foot move.

Alex Honnold, with seven 8c+' under his belt, has done Manphibian (9a) in Mt. Charleston, giving a personal 8c+ grade. This is the first 8c+ and beyond for the 39-year-old since 2021. "Psyched to get this done in between life stuff - too much work travel. Used kneebars in several places that surely make this much easier than 9a - I could even imagine hard 8c the way I did it. But it's still a great route and I really enjoy the upper part." (c) Rollin Grimmett, who sent Arrested Development (8c+) the same day, comments.

"We both sent first try of the day, first me and then him. Lovely day at the crag with surprisingly no crowds. I have been trying Arrested since I moved to Vegas in June, gave it about a month of effort before it got too hot. I trained a lot in July on the TB2, and was psyched to put it together as soon as it started cooling off. The middle crux for me is very friction dependent, so it was nice not to not slip off anymore".

Leo Bøe, who since 2023 has done a dozen 9a's, has during the last three weeks in Flatanger sent three 9a’s. (c) Adri Martinez

Little Badder (9a); "Was hard for me to complete this climb as it had 1 stopper move in the last crux. I fell in the top crux 6 tries in a row. I had to be fully rested to do the span-move, and in the end it went when I had optimized the rests before. Cool to finally send this athletic climb!!"

Illusionist (9a); "Fun to solve this puzzle and find the perfect beta. I almost only fell in the big span move before the roof, but when I finally stuck that I climbed Illusionist to the top! Was cool to share this with a motivated crew!!"

Valhalla (9a); ”Finally dared to try this endurance test. Thanks to a good crew and sharing betas it went down so quick! Doug & Josh also sent the two following days! 💥”

Pepa Šindel, who did a 9a+ two years ago, sent Hades (9a) in July. " I tried Hades for the first time in the summer of 2023 and after a few tries I started throwing sharp attempts. Unfortunately, I failed. So we returned to it during the autumn holidays. I was very close, but just felt short... So the plan for this holiday was clear - to finish it. And after a good rest and when the conditions improved, the climb was successful! Wow this one gave me a hard time 😅. So far my hardest 9a."br>

Domen Škofic has done Little Badder (9a) in Flatanger and now he has started working on Move (9b). ”I’m enjoying the process of working on Move. It’s going amazing at the moment:)”

With Jorge Diaz-Rullo (who took the picture), Stefano Ghisolfi and Seb Bouin at the scene, it is an amazing line up in the cave, although Alex Megos just left.

Can you tell us more about Little Badder?
It’s incredible that this route is not that much endurance based even though it’s approximately 50 meters long. It has so many good knee bar rests that it’s more challenging to stay focused on doing two very cool athletic cruxes perfectly with a nice flow. The only thing I disliked about this route is that it gets wet quickly and can stay wet for a long time. I basically send it the first good/dry day since arriving here. The other days I could focus on working the Move which stayed dry most of the time so I took adventure of every day :)

Loic Zehani, who earlier in 2024 has sent 15 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of La voie lactée (9a) in Baume canouille. (c) Lunar Fox

”35 powerful movements in the big overhang. "Grotte de l'Ours" style! Hard first part with a nice dynamic move and some crimpy movements, then the second part is very resistant and physical. There is no rest between. About 15 tries in way too hot, that it is so good north wind "mistral". Not soft I think.”

Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Alex Luger’s Seventh Direction (8c) in Rätikon. The 220 meter long route follows a particularly steep part of the wall, with sustained and strenuous climbing, throughout. Here is Babsi’s report.

”On August 15th, after completing our project "The Gift," we heard that Nemo [Nemuel Feurle] had successfully climbed "seventh Direction," which is located on the same rock face but about 50 meters to the left. Unlike "The Gift," which has one very hard pitch (8c) and another graded 8a+. "Seventh Direction" is consistently difficult and runs through the steepest section of the massif. While we were working on "The Gift," we often saw Nemo taking big falls on this exposed route. He spent two hand full days over two summers working on the steep line and finally made the very first repeat of "Seventh Direction" at the end of August.

After Jacopo’s send of "The Gift," he decided to join Nemo for a day on "Seventh Direction" to get a feel for it. They climbed the first difficult pitch together before a severe thunderstorm forced them to retreat. On the next attempt, I joined in. Jacopo and I spent three days together on "Seventh Direction." We worked out all the pitches and found solutions for the tough sections, benefiting greatly from Nemo’s previous efforts. He left his fixed ropes, and the route was already cleaned with visible chalk marks, making our task a bit easier. After three days of work on the different pitches, we decided to try a redpoint ascent. With five of the eight pitches ranging from 8a to 8b+, we agreed to approach it the same way as "The Gift"—one of us leading all pitches one day, and the other the next. To decide who would go first, we played rock-paper-scissors. The luck was on my side and I won, meaning I was up the next day.

On September 1st, we started early due to a high chance of thunderstorms that day. The first three pitches were easy, but the first hard pitch in the steep part of the wall took all my energy; I was not fully warmed up and barely managed to climb that pitch. My arms were pumped, and I felt already exhausted after the first hard section of the overhang. After a brief rest, I pushed on, feeling more confident but still nervous. I fought through a tricky boulder problem, only to fall just before the anchor of the second hardest pitch. Frustrated!! Jacopo lowered me back down to the belay. I tried again 45 minutes later and made it to the anchor. Back in the game. Then came the crux pitch. It was a massive fight, but I somehow barley made it and clipped the anchor, realizing I still had a little chance to send the whole line that day.Without much rest, scared from dark clouds in the sky, I pushed through the next 8a pitch, making it to the very last pitch as the sky grew darker. I asked Jacopo if he could jumar up instead of climbing to save time, as we could hear thunder approaching. Again no time for a proper rest, I began the final pitch, the one I had practiced the most. I was confident on that one but really exhausted as well. Maybe it was too much of a rush and pressure to keep on going. Again I fell at the very last move. I thought it was over. But then, a miracle—a small blue window opened in the clouds right above our route, while it rained all around us. After an hour's rest, the sky cleared, giving me one more chance. Feeling more relaxed and finally after a proper rest I climbed through the cruxes and reached the top. It was one of my most intense and motivated days in Rätikon—an incredible, steep climb through the wildest part of this wall located at Gelbegg. Thanks, Alex Luger, for this amazing route!

And biggest thanks to my partner in crime for all the support during the day and for sharing all those great moments together. Jacopo climbed the route two days later on the 3rd of September. He didn’t have a single fall. Climbed everything first try on lead! It was a perfect day, we were super fast, both no falls and we stood on top of the wall already around 2:30 p.m. That was a perfect ending of a great summer, spending lots of time in the beautiful Austrian part of the Rätikon.”

Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier report from a crazy multi-pitch link-up in Verdon. Last year they did their "Bleau Dans La Peau", 100 x 7A in Font for one day.

"We named this project "VAUTOUR": Verdon - Abrasive - Ultimate - TOUR. Our goal was to climb 5 major routes (5 of the hardest in Verdon) in less than 24 hours, totaling 1500 meters of climbing, more than 50 pitches including 9 in the 8th grade, 25 pitches in the 7th grade, and many tricky 6c/+ pitches. "The 7b+ at L'Escales? I've done easier 8a's." — Esteban Daligaut. In short, a seemingly impossible challenge 😅.

The 5 planned routes were the famous and formidable classics, each between 250 and 350 meters long with pitches up to 8b: El Topo (300m, 8a), Le Pornographe (350m, 8a), Jolie Fleur (250m, 8b), Dame Cookie (200m, 8a+), Mingus (350m, 8a).

The first challenge was to decide the order in which to attempt the routes. We had to plan to climb in the most shade, decide which routes to attempt at night, consider the type of effort each route demanded, and think about our physical state on the harder pitches. It was a complete mystery, as we had never done, or even imagined, such a gigantic challenge. We could only guess how our skin would hold up, how our forearms would feel on the overhangs, or how long it would take us to send the key pitches after hundreds meters of climbing, etc.

The van parked at L'Escales was our home and our base camp. We had everything ready: meals, water bottles, shoes, and outfits for each route. The week of specific preparation was short: trying out the routes, memorizing the moves, figuring out the strategy, and resting as much as possible! On the 8th day after our arrival, we launched the attempt, starting at night... 24 hours on the clock!! It was a memorable, intense, and epic run: in 19 hours, we completed the first 4, but couldn't finish the last one due to extreme exhaustion. It was undoubtedly one of the greatest endurance projects we've ever completed, and probably the biggest ever attempted in Verdon."

Sam Weir, who previously in 2024 has sent his two first 8C+’, has repeated Giuliano Cameroni’s Hazel Grace Sit 8C (+) in Gottardo / Gotthardpass.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did the stand to Hazel grace back in 2021 and always wanted to come back to gottardo for the sit! Things lined up this August and I was able to go for some trips in August. There is one really hard move on the sit that took me 3 sessions and over 50 tries to stick it once. Day 5 it all lined up and I was able to top the boulder! The breakdown is about hard 8A+ (one mover) into 8B+. The boulder felt something in that 8C/+ range . Another 5 star bloc from Giul!

What is your next plan?
My plan is to try arrival of the birds from Aiden since I seem to be good at this 20 degree overhang static crimping style! If it’s too hard I’ll try Alphane again 😬

Do you train anything specific going for the hardest boulders or just train by projecting?
I have really changed the last 1,5 years. I used to only project hard boulders. A year ago I decided to start weight lifting and it changed my life. I put on some weight and muscle but no longer hurt my pulleys and feel so much stronger. This combined with hard board climbing is my training 2 times a week then one day a week outside on a project. Since I work full time I’m always training but if I want to send I’ll drop the weights for a few weeks and feel good!

What is your full time work?
I work as a contract manager in the nuclear industry in France.

Katie Lamb reports on Instagram that she and Keenan Takahashi have repeated Carlo Traversi’s Equanimity (8C) at Kirkwood. "This journey was almost entirely a mental challenge, which feels emblematic of a broader narrative in my recent scaling. I’ve been on a skill building mission to try and make this low angle tech style a strength. The crux for me was the process of losing trust and then building back to a point of tenuous belief…whatever that might mean to each scaler. In the end, I found my equanimous mind."

The ultra-technical route ascends a series of angled seams on a stunning 9 meters granite face and demands a combination of tight, awkward layback moves, delicate smearing, and precise body positioning and balance. Last year, James Webb did the second ascent and commented, ”Potentially a contender for the hardest technical boulder in the world?”

Katie has been one of the very best female boulderers for quite some years and in 2023, she did three 8B+’ as well as Box Therapy (8C). Here is a podcast where she discusses her training on how to break into new grades.