12 September 2024
MP marathon in Verdon by Berthe and Parmentier
Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier report from a crazy multi-pitch link-up in Verdon. Last year they did their "Bleau Dans La Peau", 100 x 7A in Font for one day.
"We named this project "VAUTOUR": Verdon - Abrasive - Ultimate - TOUR. Our goal was to climb 5 major routes (5 of the hardest in Verdon) in less than 24 hours, totaling 1500 meters of climbing, more than 50 pitches including 9 in the 8th grade, 25 pitches in the 7th grade, and many tricky 6c/+ pitches. "The 7b+ at L'Escales? I've done easier 8a's." โ Esteban Daligaut. In short, a seemingly impossible challenge ๐ .
The 5 planned routes were the famous and formidable classics, each between 250 and 350 meters long with pitches up to 8b: El Topo (300m, 8a), Le Pornographe (350m, 8a), Jolie Fleur (250m, 8b), Dame Cookie (200m, 8a+), Mingus (350m, 8a).
The first challenge was to decide the order in which to attempt the routes. We had to plan to climb in the most shade, decide which routes to attempt at night, consider the type of effort each route demanded, and think about our physical state on the harder pitches. It was a complete mystery, as we had never done, or even imagined, such a gigantic challenge. We could only guess how our skin would hold up, how our forearms would feel on the overhangs, or how long it would take us to send the key pitches after hundreds meters of climbing, etc.
The van parked at L'Escales was our home and our base camp. We had everything ready: meals, water bottles, shoes, and outfits for each route. The week of specific preparation was short: trying out the routes, memorizing the moves, figuring out the strategy, and resting as much as possible! On the 8th day after our arrival, we launched the attempt, starting at night... 24 hours on the clock!! It was a memorable, intense, and epic run: in 19 hours, we completed the first 4, but couldn't finish the last one due to extreme exhaustion. It was undoubtedly one of the greatest endurance projects we've ever completed, and probably the biggest ever attempted in Verdon."
"We named this project "VAUTOUR": Verdon - Abrasive - Ultimate - TOUR. Our goal was to climb 5 major routes (5 of the hardest in Verdon) in less than 24 hours, totaling 1500 meters of climbing, more than 50 pitches including 9 in the 8th grade, 25 pitches in the 7th grade, and many tricky 6c/+ pitches. "The 7b+ at L'Escales? I've done easier 8a's." โ Esteban Daligaut. In short, a seemingly impossible challenge ๐ .
The 5 planned routes were the famous and formidable classics, each between 250 and 350 meters long with pitches up to 8b: El Topo (300m, 8a), Le Pornographe (350m, 8a), Jolie Fleur (250m, 8b), Dame Cookie (200m, 8a+), Mingus (350m, 8a).
The first challenge was to decide the order in which to attempt the routes. We had to plan to climb in the most shade, decide which routes to attempt at night, consider the type of effort each route demanded, and think about our physical state on the harder pitches. It was a complete mystery, as we had never done, or even imagined, such a gigantic challenge. We could only guess how our skin would hold up, how our forearms would feel on the overhangs, or how long it would take us to send the key pitches after hundreds meters of climbing, etc.
The van parked at L'Escales was our home and our base camp. We had everything ready: meals, water bottles, shoes, and outfits for each route. The week of specific preparation was short: trying out the routes, memorizing the moves, figuring out the strategy, and resting as much as possible! On the 8th day after our arrival, we launched the attempt, starting at night... 24 hours on the clock!! It was a memorable, intense, and epic run: in 19 hours, we completed the first 4, but couldn't finish the last one due to extreme exhaustion. It was undoubtedly one of the greatest endurance projects we've ever completed, and probably the biggest ever attempted in Verdon."
3 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ