"After a major cleaning session with Clément Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, it’s one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. It’s impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!

I took a while to decide on the grade because it’s much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C I’ve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago 😅). However, I wasn’t in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and I’ve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"

Delaney Miller, with two 8c+' under her belt, has signed up to Vertical-Life by logging Fat Camp (9a) in Rifle (CO). The 29-year-old has been an active competition climber for ten years until 2018. In 2015, she had her best year being Top-13 four times in the World Cup. (c) Mack Lambert

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I put a lot of work into training for this route. None of the moves are particularly hard, but it's a very sustained route, with long sections of punchy, difficult climbing. The last boulder in particular gave me quite a bit of trouble. I fell at the top eight times before punching through. Took quite a bit more effort than The Crew (8c+).

Natalia Grossman won all three rounds in the Prague World Cup, securing her eleventh Boulder WC gold. ”This win means so much to me, more than any win I’ve had recently. It signifies that if I believe in myself, I can do it. “[Prague] is one of the best World Cups I’ve been to, one of the best crowds. It was awesome, thank you! ” Runner-up was Nailé Meignan, who three weeks ago became the European Champion.

The most exciting final in the European Youth Cup in Ostermundigen was the boys' Youth B final where Christian Leitner won as he topped the route 39 seconds faster than Andrea Chelleris from Italy. Overall, France was the best nation with five medals, including two golds.

Junior: Victor Guillermin FRA - Zala Mlakar Staric SLO
Y-A: Pierre Marzullo FRA - Julia Benach Zubero ESP
Y-B: Christian Leitner AUT - Maya Eve ROU
Complete results

Lee Dohyun, who won his first World Cup in Prague last year, claimed his second World Cup gold at the same stage. ”I love Prague! I can’t believe I won again here, how can I explain my feelings? I’m just very happy! There were some tricky moves in the final, some boulders were complicated for me, but I did my best and it paid off.”

Manu Cornu, who has not made a podium since 2019, got the silver. ”It’s crazy, right? It definitely feels crazy. I don’t have a lot of words tonight. I’m back from a long difficult period. One year ago, here in Prague, the first words to my coach after the qualification round were ‘It’s over for me’. And now I’m here, on the podium.

I didn’t think it was possible for both [Anraku] Sorato and [Narasaki] Tomoa to fall on the fourth boulder. So I was quite sure I was going to get fourth place. I was very surprised.”

Domen Škofic, the overall Lead World Cup winner in 2016, has done Illusionist (9a) Flatanger. In total, the Slovenian has done 26 routes 9a to 9b. (c) Doug McConnell

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’ll be honest that the line never inspired me but the unique and incredibly technical moves make this route great 🔥 I got a good lesson on it and I’m very grateful for that. No matter how strong you feel on the moves you’ll still fail if you don’t stay present and do one step at the time focusing on the little details 👌 The send go was orgasmic as my feet and hands were falling on perfect spots the whole way 🔥

How is your project status with Move?
I did two tries from the ground and on my second one I already felt pretty much ready for it. …but I can be also far away because is just so hard to do everything perfectly after so much climbing.

I have to go back on the 30.9. So 6 more climbing days. It could be enough if the crack stays dry. Anyway I’m not stressing about it, the thing that makes me happy is that I’m finally feeling I’m making progress in my climbing again :)

Sung Su Lee, who sent four 8C’s this summer in Rocklands, has done Dreamtime (8B+/C) in Cresciano.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip to Europe?
I am currently in Switzerland, challenging myself with Alphane (9A) and the Dreamtime took me three sessions as a side project. I only have two days left to climb, so I plan to return next year.

How is your progress on Alphane?
I started from four moves in and linked it to the end. I had many good attempts, but it’s a bit disappointing since it’s just a 13-day mini trip.

What is your next plan?
In October, I plan to go to Mizugaki in Japan, and at the end of November, I’ll head to Bishop in the United States for a rock climbing trip.

Who is paying for all trips? Are you a fully sponsored climber?
I’m currently in a short-term contract with an outdoor brand in Korea, but it ends this November, so I’m not sure if I’ll be able to travel like this next year. 😮‍💨

Pietro Vidi has done Power of Now (8B+), Tigris sit (8B+) and Dark Matter (8B+) in Magic Wood. In the 8a ranking game, the 21-year-old Italian is #2.

”Dark matter is the longest line in the darkness cave, around 40 moves. I mainly tried it to gain some fitness as it’s super crimpy and powerful and good training for resistant projects in the fall. I tried a bit with Dave [Graham] and we both agree is way harder than any other 8B+ in the cave wich all took me just a couple tries, whereas dark matter was was a bigger fight. It was originally graded 8B+/C but after some breaks we agree it is definitely 8C!

Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has done Move (9b) in Flatanger. The Spaniard has been up in Norway for almost two months and two weeks ago he sent Change (9b+). (c) Adri Martinez

" Dream line and my favorite in the cave. I will never forgot this battle, 17 days of work in 2 month where I straggled with the condition, state of my skin and even more with all my emotions, to control all this and putting everything together feels like one of my biggest fight. Thanks Move for teach me a lot and thanks to all the people that was part of this process, without them help this would have been impossible."