Laura Rogora, the double Euro Champion six weeks ago, has had some great days in Verdon, onsighting Spanish Caravan (8c), flashing Le feu occulte (8b+) and Agressif you want (8c), as well as redpointing La flûte en chantier (8c+). (c) Claudia Ghisolfi

How close were you to fall on the onsight and the flashes?
At the beginning I made a few mistakes and suffered a bit on the start but fortunately then there where a lot of kneebar where I can rest. On the upper part I couldn’t figure out the best beta and I risked to fall several times. It was a 45 min long batte and in the end my calfs where totally destroyed😛.

The 8c flash was quite at my limit, there where e few wet holds so I had to give my best. The 8b+ was more under control because it was longer so the single moves where easier.

Evan Hau, who the last seven years has bolted and sent six routes 9a or 9a+, has done the FA of Queen Bee Direct (9a) in Coliseum. ”One of the original mega projects envisioned by Matt Pieterson at the Coliseum. I've been trying this route off and on since 2015. At that time I walked away from the direct start thinking it was too hard and ended up climbing a linkup variation also bolted by Matt Pieterson which ended up being Queen Bee 8c. I revisited the direct start in 2020 after doing Sacrifice and was able to do all of the individual moves but difficult conditions made it hard to get quality time on the route. Finally this year I tried to focus in on sending it. I thought I could do it in April this year, it ended up taking until October but I'm happy I got it done. Had some last day vibes and pressure today as we fly to Spain tomorrow. I think the grade is 9a/+.”

Can you tell us more about the long process behind and the number of sessions?
I had a lot of sessions on Queen Bee Direct over the years, over 50 easily. I don't keep count when it gets that high.

I had come close a few times about a month ago but couldn't get it done between mental mistakes, deteriorating conditions, foot slips. It was mostly about staying focused and keeping the psych alive to believe I could still get it done. I trained hard for this route all last winter, mostly circuits replicating crux sections, because I thought I could send in the spring but through the summer I mostly just climbed outside.

What is the plan in Spain?
In Spain we are going to hope for good conditions in Rodellar and my plan is to work on No pain no gain (9a+).

Nicholas Allan, 17, sent Khoikhoi (8C) in August. ”I first tried Khoikhoi in march and was immediately psyched on it. I wasn’t able to try it as much as I wanted because it’s very condition dependent but always had it in the back of my mind. The weather was never good and I wasn’t able to give it any close ground burns until my 6th session where I dropped the top several times. Went back the next day and managed to send it second go from the bottom. One of the best boulders I’ve done and so psyched for it to be my first 8C!”

David Bermudez Carbonell has ticked Seta total (9a) in Cuenca after some ten sessions. Two years ago, the 15-year-old had 8b as his personal best and now he has done 37 routes 8b+ to 9a. "Very proud of sending this 30m endurance testpiece. I started trying this route after the summer but I was not in good shape and I didn't have enough strength to do the lower part, which is the hardest." (c) Javi Pec

What is coming up next?
I'm not really sure but probably try some harder routes here in Cuenca. Also, I would like to go back to Cuenca and start projecting a route that I finished bolting which could be around 9a+.

Can you tell us more about your first bolting experience?
Bolting is an awesome experience. Every climber should try to bolt a route at least once. I like to create a route of a line that I saw there when I was younger. Bolting is a tough activity, especially in Cuenca where there's no high-quality rock and you must clean a lot. It is around 28 meters and is around 35 degrees steep, with 9 bolts plus the anchor. It has very aggressive moves with very poor footholds. The route has not chipped holds.

Laura Pineau, who had 8a as her personal best four months ago, has done Greenspit (8b) in Valle dell'Orco. “After a journey of 4 weeks climbing on one of the most beautiful european roof cracks, I sent Greenspit! This route has always inspired me since I started trad climbing two years ago! My biggest challenge on this route was to pass the crimp moves. After spending four sessions working on them, I finally passed them from the beginning and knew it was possible! A few days later, conditions finally arrived, I was more psyched than ever and managed to enter a perfect sending flow! What a life! Not only was this day special for me but Marco Sappa also sent La Pura Pura and Giacomo Meliffi sent Greenspit! Dream team action.”(c) Emile Pino

The 24-year-old started climbing at age 17 after previously having focused first on tennis and later on boxing. In 2019, she did her first 7a and last year she sent Freerider (7c+) in Yosemite.

Which are your most memorable ascents?
The first one that comes to my mind is doing the first feminine ascent of the roof of San Peyre (8a) in 2021, a deep water solo line that finishes at 18 meters. It was a journey that taught me how to overcome my fear of falling and showed me how hard I could try on a climb.

The second is having my first Big Wall experience on The Nose (Yosemite, California) in April 2023. I had no partner to do it and met a climber from Quebec named Gabriel who was as psyched as I was on sleeping on the wall for the first time. No matter how good of a team we were, we decided to rappel down from under the Great Roof as another party of Italians told us that a waterfall was coming down changing corner. We had no rain gear, no portaledge, no rain fly, so the best decision for us was to bail. Climbing on my first Big Wall lit up a fire in me and made me realize that these kind of adventures were the ones I was meant to live.

Another special moment was climbing Free Rider this past November 2023 which showed me how I can perform under stressful situations. When you are trying to free a Big Wall, you only get a few tries on the hardest pitches. It is either because of your skin, the weather, or even your energy level. Every try matters and having the right partner in these key moments is crucial.

Last but not least, 2024 has been a year where I have allowed myself to dream big and climb hard single pitch cracks. It first started with The Phoenix (7c+) in Yosemite, then Butterfly Circus (8a+) in Ticino, followed by Turkey crack (8a) in Cadarese, and most recently Greenspit (8b/+) in Valle dell’Orco. I am so grateful for all these amazing cracks who have taught me how to become a warrior through adversities.

What is coming up next?
I did not reveal publicly what’s next yet so I’ll be waiting a bit longer for what’s coming but it’ll be much bigger than greenspit and a first female ascent. That’s all I can say for now 🙏🏻

Marine Thevenet, with over 100 boulders 8A and beyond, has completed Juneru (8C) in Albarracín.

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8C?
I had tried the boulder problem in the fall of 2023, and the move that was giving me trouble was reaching for the left-hand undercling with the heel and toe hook. I had managed to do it only once, during one attempt, but I fell at the top-out... Juneru had stayed in the back of my mind, and when I decided to return to Albarracín this year to try it again, I trained specifically for this boulder problem: I did a lot of lock-offs and worked on some weaknesses in my footwork!

The first session on the boulder this year gave me confidence because I quickly managed to do the move that had been problematic last year! Then I focused on the top section, practicing it several times on a top rope to make sure I wouldn't fall at the end. On the day of the send, the conditions were perfect! I climbed the top part on the rope, redid some moves at the bottom, and... I gave it a solid attempt, telling myself, "Crimp as hard as you can," and boom! It was crazy!

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Iker and Eneku Pou have opened the mixed 600 m tall Truene, where the crux pitch is speculated to be 9a+, summiting Peña Santa de Castilla (2.596m). Here is a short video. Four years ago, they completed the first ascent of Rayu 8c (b+) on the same wall. Iker has been making headlines since 2000, when he climbed Action Directe 9a. Over his career, the 47-year-old has conquered more than 30 routes graded between 9a and 9b(+), with his most prolific period starting in 2015. Taking into account his impressive multi-pitch achievements, the Spaniard ranks among the world's top multi-discipline climbers.

“The first part is about five pitches (around 300m), with difficulties no higher than 7b+/c, but it’s going to require max effort due to the sparse fixed protection and the potential for some sketchy falls. The second part is seven pitches (also around 300m), but this is the hardest and most overhanging section—so much so that there were moments where we were terrified, balancing in the void! This part was a real struggle, and it's where you’ll hit the crux at 9th grade. You’ll rely on floating gear and trad protection with the odd bolt here and there.

We had marathon sessions, climbing for over 15 hours straight... we were exhausted, but so happy. We gave it our all, and when you put in 100%, it leaves you with a great feeling. One of the most beautiful parts was bivvying halfway up the wall, watching the incredible sunrises and sunsets, and being under a blanket of stars at night. Now, we just need to come back stronger and with more time for a proper redpoint attempt.”

When you say opened, do you mean you aided or hang-dogged some parts?
We open the multi pitch like always we did, from the ground up, climbing in free and putting bolts when we can’t put cams ( friends , stoppers…). For put the bolts we stopped in hooks. We redpoint all the pitches except the hardest one, pitch number (10) that can be around 9a+. It is an sustained 8c, with a super tough boulder problem at the end and no rests. It’s got some big falls and is 450 meters off the ground. We did all the moves of the pitch but we couldn’t redpoint it!! We need to come back.

How many bolts did you add in total?
Some pitches have no bolts but most have 2 or 3 bolts. The hardest pitch have 10 bolts in 40m.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with two 9a+’ under his belt, has completed A muerte bilou (9a) in Verdon, calling it 9a+. “ After breaking MANY holds I think it is really much harder.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After a great deal of hard work over the last few months (about 30 days), in the craziest summer ever, going back and forth from the Verdon, with a thousand changes at work and a 4h30 drive after the night shift, yesterday was the day! I climbed focused and determined all the hard sections and every move. Before doing the last movement, which I had fallen to the last few times, I looked at the hold and it was already in my hand! The run lasted about 1h15😅 The route goes straight up for 50 meters the middle of the Ramirole!

Incredible to have climbed this route after monsters like Alex Garriga, Bouin and Tanguy Merard; obviously bolted by kinglines maker Antonin Rhodes! Thanks to my 'hermanos fracasados' Gigi and Umbe for the whole summer, Vog and Clu for the last few days and of course to all the fantastic people I met over the past few months from all over the world! In the next post I will talk about the grade, now I just want to enjoy the moment.