Mejdi Schalck, who did not make it to the Olympics because he was the third male to qualify from France, has sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. Last year, he got the silver in both the Boulder World Cup and in the World Championship. (c) Timothée Nitschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I arrived in Mallorca 2 weeks ago and the main goal of the trip was to send Es pontas. The first sessions were not easy as it was my first-time deep water soloing. I wasn’t able to climb completely relaxed, but after a few days on the island, I was feeling way better! I did the jump on my 4th sesh and then I sent the route on my 6th sesh, I fell many times on the very last crux of the route which gave me some trouble but after a big fight and a really good go I was able to send the route! I chose to jump with 2 hands at the end because it felt way easier for me, this was I think one of the biggest keys for my send.

How high up did you fall and how was it?
I fell many times on the last crux which is around 13 m and yeah it was ok!

Tyler Thompson, who since 2023 has sent six routes 9a or 9a+, has done Southern Smoke Direct (9a) in Red River Gorge (KY). "So stoked to do this one. Felt like maybe my hardest boulder ever! Adam [Ondra] flashing is beyond comprehension…"

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Basically, the route is a direct start to southern smoke, a classic 14c [8c+] bolted by Joe Kinder and established by Joe and Brad Weaver. That route involves a hard left traverse to avoid the bottom mostly blank panel. When Joe equipped the route, he also envisioned this direct start, which is a seriously different boulder problem into the existing route. Adam Taylor did the first ascent and thought maybe it could be 15a, but then Adam Ondra came and flashed the route and proposed solid 9a. The video of Adam flashing is one of the videos I used to obsess over (Red River Gorge the movie) and I always wanted to climb the route with the same method that Adam uses.

On my trips to the Red, I’d have one short session checking in on the moves of the boulder, but I never really felt like it was possible until last fall, when I had a breakthrough session and got close to doing the boulder. I came back this year a bit more focused and climbed the boulder on my second day and sent the route on my third day of the trip!

Melina Costanza🦇, who the last week won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has done Green in the face (8B) in Castle Rock Proper.

Can you tell us more doing your second 8B?
I felt really strong competing in US nationals last week and was itching to get back outside, so I planned a trip out to Idaho with Alex Johnson. We’d never been here before, so it took us around an hour to even find the boulder, but I looked at in and immediately thought I could flash it. Tragically, I undershot the last hard move on my flash go, but I was able to pull on and send my second try.

What are your winter plans and what about competitions in 2025?
I’m relatively new to climbing outside, so my goal for this winter season is to try lots of different locations and rock types to see what I enjoy best! Afterward, I’ll be competing in US Team Trials next spring and, if I qualify, maybe some world cups next season.

Pierre Marzullo, who last year sent Supercrackinette (9a+), has done Anidalle tracteur (9a) in L'Abattoir. ”Pure beauty at home 😍 can’t wait to fight for the second pitch which is just perfect. 4 sessions to do this one spending my 2nd and 3rd sesh doing a shity betta, it went down after changing it ! Amazing moves and amazing rock.”

Laura Rogora has repeated Cody Roth’s Flipping Bird direct (9a) in Grottosauro. Seven weeks ago, the 23-year-old Italian won two golds in the European Championship. Since then, she has done six routes 8c to 9a (+), out of which one flash and one onsight, besides competing in four World Cups and the Arco Rockmaster. (c) Alberto Arre

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did three tries on tuesday and sent it on my first try the day after. The route start with an hard boulder followed by an easier pumpy climbing where you can still fall.

Hannes Van Duysen, who was #14 in the Olympics, has flashed Poseidon's Kiss (8c) and sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. His first ever DWS experience was trying the Chris Sharma classical line from 2006 and the 20-year-old sent it in just four sessions. (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz

Can you tell us more about Es Pontas?
The big dyno was challenging but mentally the heal hook crux at the top was much harder as it is my antistyle. I actually tried to go for a harder physical solution but in the end, it was frustrating. Then Yulen advised on how to place the heel hook better and it was game on again.

The day of the send started with four tries not making the dyno and then I took a 1.5 h break and sent it, including making mistakes and being nervous at the top. What a great feeling topping out and remembering seeing the video of Sharma doing it like ten years ago.

What was your DWS personal best before Es Pontas?
I flashed the classical Loskot and two smoking barrels (8a+) and later I flashed Possidon’s kiss. I actually did not wear a chalk bag as I was so sure of falling. The first holds were wet due to high waves so I lost all my chalk and it became very hard but I could still send it with a good fight.

What are your plans for the winter and the next year?
First of all, I will start the winter training for next season. I am planning to start projecting Alphane. This is a boulder that makes me really psyched, I'm not sure if it will be this winter already but for sure in the near future. Then in 2025, I want to go back to Ratstaman Vibrations (9b). I tried it for the first time this summer and it is really one of the best things I tried, so if I have the possibility to go back there, I will go.

I will continue competing but I will make sure I will touch more rock. The Olympic experience was nice but hard and two years before Paris and especially the year before I climbed a bit less on rock.

Austin Geiman has after 100+ session taken down Defying Gravity (8C) in South Platte. This summer the 38-year-old set a new personal standard by doing five 8B’s in Rocklands. (c) Ben Neilson

Can you tell us more about your story with Defying Gravity?
I first tried it in 2013 when it was still a project. I managed to do the first move (which is the crux) fall of 2013. I fell off the second jump move which is around 8A in difficulty. Soon after a piece of the starting foothold broke off and it made my method much more difficult. Daniel Woods then came to try it. He used a different method which did not use the foot. I continued working on the climb off and on for the next 10 years. Never repeating the first move, but feeling close at times. During that time I had multiple climbing-related injuries that set me back. Then in the fall of 2023, I started seriously projecting it again with Nathaniel Coleman. The move began feeling familiar again I thought it might be possible for me, but I had my doubts.

Nathaniel then did the climb with the heel hook method which got me really amped. I stuck the first move again right after he sent it! But of course, I fell on the second jump again! This season I went into the climb with the right mindset and better tactics. It became a reality in the third session this season.

How can you explain peaking at age 38?
Definitely smarter technically and tactically. Also, learning to rest more and listen to my body. My elbows and shoulders are healthier than they have felt in years.

Victor Guillermin sent Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup, two months ago. "So nice! In the beginning, the route was wet, but after a big fight, I managed to pass through the wet crux, I fell on the easier part (8a+) at the end... A couple of weeks later, I came back and it was dry, but I fell again on the easier part... a couple of tries after I made my way up to the anchor! Very nice route, one of the best for the grade, even if it is soft if you are good at kneebar..."

This was the seventh 9a or 9a+ for the 19-year-old who headlines the video, “best 9a in France", and he might be right as all 15 who have star-rated it have given it five stars.

What are your winter plans?
I will keep pushing in Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya this winter... Right now, I am trying the route getting closer and closer! The goal is to do it as soon as possible!

Jessica Pilz, the overall Lead World Cup winner in 2024, has sent Paint it black (8c+) in Zillertal. (c) Michael Piccolruaz

”The route is quite new, bolted by Flo Schmalzl. We did the third (Misha) and fourth ascent after Flo and Jakob [Schubert]. I first tried it on Wednesday last week, but I only had one good try because, on all the other attempts, my heel slipped all the time on a high left heel hook in the middle of the route. Yesterday, I checked out the moves one more time and then sent it on the next go.”

What are the winter plans and the competition plans for 2025?
No proper plans for this winter, but I think training starts in December again, so I will also rest a bit in November. And for next comp season I plan to compete in all lead world cups and I am not sure about bouldering yet. maybe I do a few bouldering world cups, which are at the same venue as lead or close to Austria.