Austin Geiman, 38, completes Defying Gravity (8C)

Austin Geiman has after 100+ session taken down Defying Gravity (8C) in South Platte. This summer the 38-year-old set a new personal standard by doing five 8B’s in Rocklands. (c) Ben Neilson

Can you tell us more about your story with Defying Gravity?
I first tried it in 2013 when it was still a project. I managed to do the first move (which is the crux) fall of 2013. I fell off the second jump move which is around 8A in difficulty. Soon after a piece of the starting foothold broke off and it made my method much more difficult. Daniel Woods then came to try it. He used a different method which did not use the foot. I continued working on the climb off and on for the next 10 years. Never repeating the first move, but feeling close at times. During that time I had multiple climbing-related injuries that set me back. Then in the fall of 2023, I started seriously projecting it again with Nathaniel Coleman. The move began feeling familiar again I thought it might be possible for me, but I had my doubts.

Nathaniel then did the climb with the heel hook method which got me really amped. I stuck the first move again right after he sent it! But of course, I fell on the second jump again! This season I went into the climb with the right mindset and better tactics. It became a reality in the third session this season.

How can you explain peaking at age 38?
Definitely smarter technically and tactically. Also, learning to rest more and listen to my body. My elbows and shoulders are healthier than they have felt in years.