Colin Duffy has, in one solo session, repeated Daniel Woods' Deathstar (8C) in Eldora. ”This thing is rad, the bottom sequence makes the stand start moves wayyy spicier. On the send go, I lost my feet while sticking the final slot, but I was able to hold it one handed! Not the cleanest send but got the job done. 3rd 8C in 9 days, let's keep the momentum rolling...”

Amandine Loury, who earlier in 2024 did her second 8c+, has done L'étrave (8c) in Saint Léger and Rest in Beast (8b+) in Buoux. In the VL ranking game, the 34-year-old is #4.

Can you tell us more about the 8c?
L’étrave is a very beautiful and various line in Praniania sector. It’s the direct start of La Trav vers l’étrave 8b+ that I send in 2020. The start of L'étrave is very powerfull with long moves and hooks. Just after there is a beautiful pumpy section before a good rest and to finish there is a hard and mental section with crimp on a vertical wall. So I was happy to not fall in this last part, because I was not sure to send again the start.

Michaela Kiersch is the first woman to have reached both 8C and 9a+. At age 15, she was #22 in her Boulder World Cup debut in 2010 and the next year she was #18 in a Lead World Cup. Her competition career did not take off and instead, she focused on outdoors and University studies. The Doctor in Hand Therapy has completed 17 boulders graded 8B or harder and along with 17 routes rated 8c+ and beyond, no other female can match her outdoor ticklist. Remarkably, nearly all of the 29-year-old’s toughest ascents have come in just the past 2.5 years. Here she shares her great story. (c) Jan Novak

"I first started climbing at the turn of the century — a time I look back on as a golden era in climbing. My local gyms had torn up rubber on the floors, boulders and routes were marked with all colors of tape (and there was a giant resident tape ball next to every hand me down couch), and RJD2 was playing on someone's iPod shuffle (they probably got the album off limewire). Posters of my climbing heroes hung on every wall and I fervently flipped though the pages of all the classic climbing mags at the gym. Right at this time, 2000, Fred Nicole established Dreamtime as the world’s first V15. Shortly after, in 2001, Chris Sharma achieved the first ascent of Biographie, instituting the world’s first 5.15.

V15 [8C] and 5.15 [9a+] became a little Mich’s gold standard in climbing — the absolute limit and something only giants are capable of. One thing did stick though, I was determined to find my own limit (at the time, it was toproping an overhang which my dad bribed me to send with a blue gatorade). But I was set down a path of seeing how high I could go.

My path in climbing has been my own and that is something I am immensely proud of. It is still surreal to have found myself standing among those same giants as the first woman to have climbed both V15 & 5.15. So what’s next? I’m still chasing my limits and catching stars along the way. I haven’t exactly decided where my next ambitions are (sport?? boulder?? Pls cast your votes) but I’m due for some time at home to celebrate my 30th birthday, the holidays, and my sister who is graduating with her nursing degree. The only thing I have left to say here is thank you. I am eternally and inexplicably grateful to those who showed me how big I can dream and those who supported me along the way."

Olivia Ma, who last month got the silver in the Pan American Lead Championship, has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Gateway Canyon.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
As far as boulders go, this one’s pretty up my alley— I’m more of a sport climber, so it was nice to put my power endurance to use. The tricky part for me was managing my skin and energy, since I had a short trip and it’s a long climb. It took me most of my first session to tinker through my beta, so my tank was running low by the time I started giving goes. I was psyched to send it first ground go the next day. It felt really nice to finish up Lethal, it has some movement I’ll keep with me for a while. And it’s my first of the grade!

What is your climbing background?
I grew up mainly as an indoor comp kid in New Jersey, but I’ve been lucky to have gotten some good time outdoors, especially in my early teens (thanks mom). It’s been busier for me since I started competing in multiple circuits, especially when I started applying to and attending college. But now that I’ve graduated from youth I think I’ll have more choosing room. I’m excited for that!

"The film showcases Shauna's bouldering year, featuring significant ascents including Hazel Grace (8B+/V14) in Gotthard Pass, The Boss (8B+/V14) in Yarncliffe, Peak District, and Fotofobia (8B+/V14) in La Pedriza, Spain. It also offers insight into how Shauna manages her career as a professional climber while embracing her new role as a mother. This remarkable year for Coxsey includes her work as a presenter for the Olympic Games on Discovery/Eurosport and her ongoing position as Athlete Commission President for the IFSC, alongside her climbing achievements. Coxsey plans to continue seeking hard projects outdoors in 2025."

Colin Duffy has repeated Daniel Woods’ Defying Gravity (8C) at Thunder Ridge. ”Woah. This climb fits my style better than anything I've ever tried. Feels incredible to take down one of my dream boulders!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’ve wanted to try DG for a long time, and to finally stand under the striking line was incredibly exciting. I decided from the start I would use Noah Wheeler’s campus method, as I’m most in control when campusing. I was able to get close within a few goes and finally stuck the first move on my 6th attempt. I ended up falling on the second jump on this attempt, but two goes later I was standing on top of the boulder. I definitely plan on trying the sit start [8C+ project] in the future!

Patxi Usobiaga is a legendary name in climbing, requiring little introduction. A former World Champion and the first climber to onsight 8c+, Patxi has also made his mark as a coach to some of the sport's greatest athletes, including Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Despite a career-altering injury in 2010 that forced his retirement from competition, Patxi remains renowned for his unwavering commitment and intensity on the wall. His motto, “a muerte” (to the death), perfectly captures his relentless approach to climbing.

He was the Overall Lead World Cup winner in 2006 and 2007, the 2008 European Champion and, at 28, the 2009 Lead World Champion. Outdoors, he has redpointed five 9a+’.

How and when did you become a climbing trainer and how did it evolve into your coaching job today?
My journey as a climbing trainer began in 2006, during my competitive career, when I started helping other climbers improve their performance. The concept of PUCtraining was born during this period, alongside my own successes, including World Cups, European Championships, and World Championships. I saw the impact of structured training not only on my own results but also on those of the climbers I was coaching.

In September 2012, I decided to dedicate myself to PUCtraining professionally. This allowed me to expand my reach and work with climbers from all over the world, helping them unlock their potential with tailored, science-based training programs. Today, PUCtraining is still a leader in online training for climbers, but my role has evolved to help climbers reach their potential on real rock, through more personalized training programs tailored to each individual’s needs, regardless of their level.

For how long were you the trainer for Adam Ondra and what was the focus?
I worked with Adam Ondra from 2014 until the end of 2019. During this period, we focused on pushing the boundaries of what was possible in climbing, both in competition and on rock. We worked on enhancing his physical abilities, refining his technique, and developing a mental strategy to stay sharp in high-pressure situations. Adam achieved great things during our time together, both in competition—winning multiple World Cups—and on rock, where he climbed some of the world’s most difficult routes. This experience reinforced my belief in the importance of personalized, goal-driven training, and it was inspiring to see Adam's incredible growth, not just as an athlete but as a climber who constantly pushes the limits of what’s possible.

What is your best general training advice for the 7a and 8a climbers respectively?
For 7a climbers, focus on volume and variety. Climb as much as possible on different types of routes, and prioritize improving your technique and efficiency. Don’t rush to chase grades—building a strong foundation will pay off in the long run.

For 8a climbers, it’s time to embrace structured training. Identify your weaknesses, whether it’s power, endurance, or mental focus, and address them systematically. Balance your training with recovery to avoid burnout and injuries, and remember to keep the joy of climbing alive by exploring new challenges and styles.

What does PUCtraining offer today for clients?
PUCtraining focuses on providing personalized, one-to-one coaching tailored to each climber's specific needs and goals. My programs are designed for climbers of all levels—from beginners building a strong foundation to advanced climbers preparing for high-level projects on rock or competitions. Over time, PUCtraining has evolved into a more organic approach. Gone are the "hell sessions" it started with, which may still be how some in the climbing world perceive me. Today, my focus is on developing climbers through balanced and sustainable training that aligns with their individual needs and long-term progression.

Here’s how it works:
Initial Consultation: We begin with an in-depth assessment to understand the climber's strengths, weaknesses, and objectives.
Custom Training Plan: I design a detailed program based on the client’s infrastructure, availability, and current level, focusing on physical conditioning, technical skills, and mental strategies.
Ongoing Support: Throughout the program, I provide regular check-ins and adjustments to ensure progress and alignment with the climber’s goals.
Personal Coaching on Rock: In addition to online training, I offer in-person coaching on rock. This is designed to help climbers improve their skills and technique directly on real rock. It is a separate service and requires a customized quote based on the client’s needs and location.

In addition, I’m currently working alongside Pablo Scorza to create a highly exclusive product for 2025. This will combine both of our experiences into a unique opportunity to share our knowledge and expertise with climbers.

Pricing and Options
The online training programs are equally tailored to the client’s needs; the difference lies in their duration and pricing:
3 months: €550
6 months: €1000
12 months: €1600

For personal coaching on rock, pricing is determined individually based on the specific requirements and location. Contact Information: Since my website is currently offline, the best way to get in touch is via email at [email protected]. Spots are limited, so I encourage anyone interested to reach out soon!

Eli Perry, who did first 8A only two years ago, has done Sound of Violence (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). Yesterday, we reported about his brother Miles, having done a 9a FA.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Yeah for sure, I’d been putting a lot of time in on the right exit, Pegasus and was getting really close but it started getting pretty cold in joes so I was constantly numbing out on the last couple moves. Sounds of violence is the left exit and is a few moves less than Pegasus so I figured it would be good to work on while it’s cold. I did the stand, sound of silence, which turned out to be a lot more in my style than the right exit and with the bottom moves already being pretty dialed in from my time on Pegasus I managed to get it done pretty quick. The day I sent it was only 23 degrees [-5 celsius] there were icicles hanging on the side of the Boulder, snow all over the ground but luckily the Boulder was dry and got it done first try of the day!

I would like to finish up Pegasus here pretty soon before it gets too cold and I’m also trying to go to Rocklands this summer so I’m going to be working a lot to save up for that. I’ll be doing less outdoor climbing and mostly training in the gym to get ready for my spring projects.

What is your climbing background?
My dad is a climber so I grew up around the sport, he would get us out every once in a while but I never got super psyched on it until about 4 years ago when I turned 15 and I did my first lead 5.10 and V3 Boulder outside, then I started going super consistently and got way into it. It’s great to have a brother that is also way into climbing, we climb all the time together and he helps push me to climb harder. We also work on the same climbs a lot which helps push both of us a makes the whole process way more enjoyable.

How does a normal training week look like?
I’ll be doing two days on one day off, first day just projecting on either the kilter or tension board and then second day I’ll be doing gym sets and then doing endurance training on the spray wall, core workouts, and do a little bit of lifting.