PUCtraining with Patxi Usobiaga

Patxi Usobiaga is a legendary name in climbing, requiring little introduction. A former World Champion and the first climber to onsight 8c+, Patxi has also made his mark as a coach to some of the sport's greatest athletes, including Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Despite a career-altering injury in 2010 that forced his retirement from competition, Patxi remains renowned for his unwavering commitment and intensity on the wall. His motto, “a muerte” (to the death), perfectly captures his relentless approach to climbing.

He was the Overall Lead World Cup winner in 2006 and 2007, the 2008 European Champion and, at 28, the 2009 Lead World Champion. Outdoors, he has redpointed five 9a+’.

How and when did you become a climbing trainer and how did it evolve into your coaching job today?
My journey as a climbing trainer began in 2006, during my competitive career, when I started helping other climbers improve their performance. The concept of PUCtraining was born during this period, alongside my own successes, including World Cups, European Championships, and World Championships. I saw the impact of structured training not only on my own results but also on those of the climbers I was coaching.

In September 2012, I decided to dedicate myself to PUCtraining professionally. This allowed me to expand my reach and work with climbers from all over the world, helping them unlock their potential with tailored, science-based training programs. Today, PUCtraining is still a leader in online training for climbers, but my role has evolved to help climbers reach their potential on real rock, through more personalized training programs tailored to each individual’s needs, regardless of their level.

For how long were you the trainer for Adam Ondra and what was the focus?
I worked with Adam Ondra from 2014 until the end of 2019. During this period, we focused on pushing the boundaries of what was possible in climbing, both in competition and on rock. We worked on enhancing his physical abilities, refining his technique, and developing a mental strategy to stay sharp in high-pressure situations. Adam achieved great things during our time together, both in competition—winning multiple World Cups—and on rock, where he climbed some of the world’s most difficult routes. This experience reinforced my belief in the importance of personalized, goal-driven training, and it was inspiring to see Adam's incredible growth, not just as an athlete but as a climber who constantly pushes the limits of what’s possible.

What is your best general training advice for the 7a and 8a climbers respectively?
For 7a climbers, focus on volume and variety. Climb as much as possible on different types of routes, and prioritize improving your technique and efficiency. Don’t rush to chase grades—building a strong foundation will pay off in the long run.

For 8a climbers, it’s time to embrace structured training. Identify your weaknesses, whether it’s power, endurance, or mental focus, and address them systematically. Balance your training with recovery to avoid burnout and injuries, and remember to keep the joy of climbing alive by exploring new challenges and styles.

What does PUCtraining offer today for clients?
PUCtraining focuses on providing personalized, one-to-one coaching tailored to each climber's specific needs and goals. My programs are designed for climbers of all levels—from beginners building a strong foundation to advanced climbers preparing for high-level projects on rock or competitions. Over time, PUCtraining has evolved into a more organic approach. Gone are the "hell sessions" it started with, which may still be how some in the climbing world perceive me. Today, my focus is on developing climbers through balanced and sustainable training that aligns with their individual needs and long-term progression.

Here’s how it works:
Initial Consultation: We begin with an in-depth assessment to understand the climber's strengths, weaknesses, and objectives.
Custom Training Plan: I design a detailed program based on the client’s infrastructure, availability, and current level, focusing on physical conditioning, technical skills, and mental strategies.
Ongoing Support: Throughout the program, I provide regular check-ins and adjustments to ensure progress and alignment with the climber’s goals.
Personal Coaching on Rock: In addition to online training, I offer in-person coaching on rock. This is designed to help climbers improve their skills and technique directly on real rock. It is a separate service and requires a customized quote based on the client’s needs and location.

In addition, I’m currently working alongside Pablo Scorza to create a highly exclusive product for 2025. This will combine both of our experiences into a unique opportunity to share our knowledge and expertise with climbers.

Pricing and Options
The online training programs are equally tailored to the client’s needs; the difference lies in their duration and pricing:
3 months: €550
6 months: €1000
12 months: €1600

For personal coaching on rock, pricing is determined individually based on the specific requirements and location. Contact Information: Since my website is currently offline, the best way to get in touch is via email at [email protected]. Spots are limited, so I encourage anyone interested to reach out soon!