Yannick Flohé does Ratstaman Vibrations 9b/+

Yannick Flohé, who last month became the first climber to flash an 8C boulder, has done the first repeat of Alex Megos’ Ratstaman Vibrations 9b/+ in Céüse. The German remarked that it was the hardest route he had ever attempted, adding that it deserved a slash upgrade after taking him 30 days across two seasons to complete the send. In ten days, he will compete in the final Lead World Cup in Koper, aiming to improve on his current sixth place in the rankings. (c) Rainer Eder

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying this route more than a year ago, right after the OQS in Shanghai in May. My plan was to try Biographie, but it was too crowded, so I checked out Ratstaman and got addicted to the route on the very first day. The route is so unique and really different from the usual Ceüse climbing style. The beginning is pure bouldering with a low-percentage crux after 26 moves. The first part was never a problem, and I had some promising tries, getting to the final crux within just a few sessions. I had high expectations to send quickly but slowly realized that it is a completely different game to do the last two crux moves from the ground.

I remembered Alex describing the route as a 12 moves 8b+ boulder with a bad rest into an 8c+ climb. Climbing an 8c+ with a medium pump did not sound too hard, but I would describe it more like a 9a route into an 8a boulder without any rest. It was a frustrating time, falling at the same two moves almost every try.

Conditions and skin also played a big role. I never had more than one or two good tries per day and had to take a rest day after every session. The main crux of the final boulder problem is a deadpoint move into a blocked three finger crimp, which I managed to stick twice last year. But catching that crimp perfectly and engaging the next move, another big move to a three finger pocket, turned out to be another problem from the ground.

It was a big rollercoaster dealing with weak fingers, cuts, and a lack of motivation. On my first trip this year in June, I felt stronger than the year before but only stuck that move once. On this trip, I started to feel more consistent and, for the first time, stuck the move in a way that made me believe I could reach the final hold. It took me another week to complete the last hard move and it felt so good.

The entire route is about 40 meters but the upper half is only 7c, so I made it to the top. I think this was my biggest mental challenge in climbing and I am really happy that I can finally move on to other projects in Ceüse.

What are your next plans
Koper [WC], World champs, Rockmaster and Excalibur. Maybe I will try Bibliographie next year. But first, I need to finish Excalibur. Climbing both of these routes has been my main goal this year in my new role as a lead climber.