Matty Hong sends Biographie (9a+)
30 May 2023
Biographie was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and then in 1996 Arnaud Petit made it 2/3 up to a first anchor grading it 8c+. Five years later Chris Sharma made the FA of the full 35 meters line and the first anchor was removed. In total, it has now been repeated 19 times including one female ascent by Margo Hayes in 2017.
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20 September 2023
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
12 January 2023
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…
EDITORIAL
21 January 2023
Is onsight climbing on life support?
During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…
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17 March 2023
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (8c+) at The Fortress of Solitude. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project K…
2 May 2023
Biographie (9a+) by Tanguy Merard, 19
Tanguy Merard has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted it in 1989 and then in 1996 Arnaud Petit made it to the first …
2 June 2023
Matty Hong's Biographie (9a+) back-story
Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in…
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EDITORIAL
17 March 2023
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (8c+) at The Fortress of Solitude. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project K…
2 May 2023
Biographie (9a+) by Tanguy Merard, 19
Tanguy Merard has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted it in 1989 and then in 1996 Arnaud Petit made it to the first …
2 June 2023
Matty Hong's Biographie (9a+) back-story
Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in…
FAVORITES
14 April 2023
Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)
William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …
6 September 2023
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C+) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean …
20 September 2023
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …