
13 October 2023
Victor Guillermin (18) adds to Condรฉ de Choc's record season of ascents!
Victor Guillermin, who won the bronze at the Euro Youth Championship last month, has done Condรฉ de choc (9a) in Entraygues. This was the seventh logged ascent in the 8a database since June. "Really cool and bouldery route ๐ฅ๐ฅ with three big jumps... I was too weak to do the jump at the beginning during the send so I took the crimp๐คซ"
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried this route this summer and did 2 goes to touch the holds... but it was really hot and I couldn't solve the first part of the route (8A+ crimpy boulder problem). Two weeks ago, I returned to Entraygues, and I managed to find a beta for the first part, and a beta for the second part (8b+ route). This weekend, I felt ready to send the route, but I couldn't pass the first part on Saturday, I was always falling on the last move, a big jump to a crimp (the picture). Then on Sunday, I decided to change my beta to not fall at this move again. Tanguy [Merard] told me to take a small crimp instead of doing the jump: physically it's a bit harder but it's less aleatory. Then I put in a try with this new method, and I was able to pass the boulder problem for the first time! Resting in between the two parts, I knew that I had to climb perfectly not to fall... luckily, I made no mistakes in this second part (with two other jumps) and I was able to send Condรฉ de Choc, one of the coolest 9a I've ever climbed! A perfect day! I just want to say good luck to Tanguy and Lilian who are both working hard routes in Entraygues... be strong dudes!
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried this route this summer and did 2 goes to touch the holds... but it was really hot and I couldn't solve the first part of the route (8A+ crimpy boulder problem). Two weeks ago, I returned to Entraygues, and I managed to find a beta for the first part, and a beta for the second part (8b+ route). This weekend, I felt ready to send the route, but I couldn't pass the first part on Saturday, I was always falling on the last move, a big jump to a crimp (the picture). Then on Sunday, I decided to change my beta to not fall at this move again. Tanguy [Merard] told me to take a small crimp instead of doing the jump: physically it's a bit harder but it's less aleatory. Then I put in a try with this new method, and I was able to pass the boulder problem for the first time! Resting in between the two parts, I knew that I had to climb perfectly not to fall... luckily, I made no mistakes in this second part (with two other jumps) and I was able to send Condรฉ de Choc, one of the coolest 9a I've ever climbed! A perfect day! I just want to say good luck to Tanguy and Lilian who are both working hard routes in Entraygues... be strong dudes!
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