Condé de choc is Justin Deschamps' first 9a

Justin Deschamps has sent Condé de choc (9a) in Entraygues. (c) Lilian Moretti

"I tried for the first time Condé de choc last summer, after having already sent all the 8th graded routes of the sector. I struggled in the lower crux section and especially on this classic jump dyno. I came back stronger this year and tried the route with Adrian Houbron. I found an alternative beta to avoid this impossible dyno (6b for Adrian 😂), using an intermediate tiny crimp instead of jumping. Adrian sent this route quite quickly and I came back the following weekend with better conditions to follow his example. I fell two times at the last move and I managed to stick it in an insane fight at 8 pm to send my first 9a. The vibe was crazy at the crag and my friends supported me a lot during these runs. Now time to join Tanguy (Merard) in Le Pamphlet, [for] the project there." 🤙