Victimas Perez 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

1 June 2022

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c+ at age 12,has done the first female ascent of Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef. (c) Jorge Diaz-Rullo

How many sessions did it take and how many times did you fall on the last move?
I didn’t count but I tried it from last season so 2 seasons! I’d say it was around 50 sessions but this season the conditions were so bad that some days I barley climbed. I fell at the top many times hahahah, I lost count, maybe 15.

What was it in the end that made the trick?
I guess just persistence gave me the send.😊 I'm super happy to have achieved the first female ascent. 😊

Did you do any specific physical or replica training?
I was doing replica and endurance training indoors and then I’d also do laps on the last crux when I was projecting it.

The Australian has been a life style globetrotter since age 9 when she did her first 8b. "I started climbing when I was 7 years old, not long after I began climbing outside in the local crags after school with my dad. When I started climbing, competitions weren’t really a massive thing and I wasn't really interested in it anyways. I enjoy the challenges that came with climbing rocks and the process of projecting. When I was 9 years old my parents planned our first overseas family trip to the United States. By this point, I was totally in love with climbing and it was mostly all I thought about. My parents suggested we could maybe stop by and visit some outdoor crags in the states to try out the climbing in another country. This was extremely exciting for me, with Australia being pretty far from the rest of the world, climbing in another country was a big deal."
4  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

5 May 2022

DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…

42

EDITORIAL

5 December 2022

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

33
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

31

RELATED

Chipping in Finestra wall in Margalef

EDITORIAL

4 June 2022

Chipping in Finestra wall in Margalef

Angie Scarth-Johnson who just did the FFA of Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef reports on Insta about chipping on that route as well as on . "The truth is , thoug…

1
Pornographie 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

23 August 2022

Pornographie 9a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (18)

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who previously has done two 9a’s, has sent Pornographie (9a) in Céüse. (c) Adri Martinez ”It is such a beautiful route, it almost feels l…

11
Angie Scarth-Johnson lifestyle globetrotter since age 9

17 January 2022

Angie Scarth-Johnson lifestyle globetrotter since age 9

Angie Scarth-Johnson made the first 8a headline at age 9 by doing an 8b in Red River Gorge (KY). Amazingly, her parents did not climb but supported her big inte…

7