Vantablack 8B by Alex Johnson

Wednesday, 8 December

Alex Johnson, who won two World Cups in 2008 and 2010, has done Vantablack (8B) in Red Rock (NV). "2 sessions, amazing rock. Tenuous moves down low on a rail to a sick big move to a crimp off a heel, desperado grovel topout. Really nice addition to the zone. Rail trav was def crux for me haha. HYPE!"Bree Robles

How was that super quick process?
I feel like it’s already been a super great season, and I haven’t even done much yet… I’ve been getting out a bunch with Allison Vest and we climb and project amazingly well together. She tries super fucking hard and it’s so inspiring and has encouraged me to dig deeper and activate that try-hard grit.

That’s what I had to do with Vanta. My first session on it was solo and I worked it for hours refining beta but it was still too hot during the day. By the time the sun went down and temps got better, I was wrecked. In my next session on it, I had the top dialed, but the bottom moves still felt so hard. The bottom is super tenuous and finicky. I gave several failed redpoint attempts from the bottom. Then one time I was able to make it through the bottom, stuck the big move outright, and clawed my way through the topout. It was a moment of blackout focus and maximum effort.

Is it not about time to go for your first 8B+?
I’d love to try some 8B+’s! Allison and I have got our eyes on a few, and seeing Brooke just take down Trieste is super inspiring, too.

In 2019, Alex did a comeback on the competition circuit trying to make it to the Olympics and started off by being #7 in Meiringen. Interesting is that 2021 is her best year outdoors having done two out of three 8B's.

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