Sleepwalker 8C+ by Ryuichi Murai
6 February 2023

Sleepwalker was opened by Jimmy Webb and later Daniel Woods added a sitstart, calling it Return of the Sleepwalker (9A).
Did you give the 9A sit start a go? Did you do any special training in order to get in shape for this trip?
Tomorrow is the last day. So the sit start is for the next time. I made some sloper and fat pinch problems at the spray wall and trained sometimes with the Beast Maker 2000. Additionally, I also did full span training from an undercling to sloper hold. (Sleepwalker requires wingspan).
My basic climbing style is training on the gym's spray wall 2-3 times a week. The amount will increase a little more one month before a trip. The content includes max power training with problems of V12 (8A+) and above, and circuit training with problems of V7-9. And I often do finger pull-ups using the Beast Maker 2000. I sometimes do plank training at home on days when I don't climb.
When and where do you plan to travel next ?
Maybe Alphane or South Africa in June-July.
MOST COMMENTED
5 May 2022
DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…
EDITORIAL
5 December 2022
Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023
In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …
12 January 2023
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…
RELATED
28 September 2022
Foundations Edge 8C by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods has repeated Dave Graham's Foundations Edge (8C) and Scarred for Life (8B+) in Fionnay. More pictures on his Insta. The 33-year-old has been on the…
4 February 2022
Daniel Woods: 8C+, 9A and 9A+ progress interview
Daniel Woods has been one of the best boulderers in the world since he at age 15, in 2004, did his first 8B+. From 2005, he won the American Nationals for ten y…
20 December 2022
Paint in Black 8C by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). "Surprised myself with a send of this one after 5 days off from the flu. One of the most technical (that…
RELATED NEWS
28 September 2022
Foundations Edge 8C by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods has repeated Dave Graham's Foundations Edge (8C) and Scarred for Life (8B+) in Fionnay. More pictures on his Insta. The 33-year-old has been on the…
4 February 2022
Daniel Woods: 8C+, 9A and 9A+ progress interview
Daniel Woods has been one of the best boulderers in the world since he at age 15, in 2004, did his first 8B+. From 2005, he won the American Nationals for ten y…
20 December 2022
Paint in Black 8C by Noah Wheeler
Noah Wheeler has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). "Surprised myself with a send of this one after 5 days off from the flu. One of the most technical (that…
FAVORITES
5 May 2022
DNA 9c FA by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done three 9b/+, reports on Insta that he has done the FA of DNA 9c in Verdon. "I'm happy to have completed this project. Af…
5 February 2023
Excalibur 9b+ FA by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi has done the FA of Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. It was bolted by Christian Dorigatti and Morris Fontanari who invited Stefano to try it two years a…
3 November 2022
Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ by Seb Bouin
Sebastien BOUIN has done the FA of the long-standing project Jumbo Love (9b) direct start, calling it Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain. (c) Clarisse Bom…