13 December 2015

UIAA horror movie bolt report questioned

8a did ask Emanuele Pellizzari , equipper and bolting gear seller and producer, to give some comments in regard to the UIAA statement saying that 304 bolts are a part of a horror movie. It should be stated that 8a mainly agrees with Eman's conclusion. "Most climbers that read the UIAA press release did not understand, or wanted to understand, what its written in it. Most concentrate mainly on the kind of material to be used (or not used). That is the less interesting, and less important, part of it. The release only comes in two languages and a bigger effort to have it translated should have be addressed. First: UIAA places the lifespan of a bolt in +50 years. This is longer than any equipper thought or expected. This is significantly longer than any supplier with a salt of grain, will guarantee. This can be considered three or more generations of climbers: I think its unrealistic. I am not saying its bad, I am saying its unrealistic. Second: UIAA acknowledges that no bolter/equipper or individual climber can or will pay for the upgrade in materials they suggest. It also acknowledges that most of those materials (they use the words cost and availability), cannot realistically be found/bought. Even many touristic boards wouldnt pay for the upgrade, or they may realize it is not worth to invest in our activity since the return to investment is much lower now. Third, and this is the point the climbing community did not understand the most, is when UIAA writes: the bulk of the climbing population needs to start paying for anchors, whereas in the past most had a free ride. Who pays, how they pay, when they pay, how much they pay, etcthis was not mentioned. If all bolts that have been drilled would be replaced according to the release, the cost we talk about amounts in a big sequence of digits dozens millions Euro. Finally, UIAA basically discourage any new routing development unless 4 or more times more cost of equipment is used. It discourages any rebolting initiative without proper gear. With such an official release, it places 99.99% of bolts now in situ, on the future unsafe side. Any landowner that reads this, or any major of a town that understands it, might think the sport its unsafe and lock down any outdoor climbing activity. I hope it wouldnt happen. A sport without development is a dying sport. I feel the sport is safe as long as its community reminds that climbing was, is and will be, a dangerous activity. My two cents is that the release had good intentions, but its such a step forward that the community is not willing to accept it. The industry might accept it since it poses a 4 times increase of turnover in bolting equipment. Were people using the suggested gear when it will be available (if it will be ever be), I have no clue. My lifespan as equipper will not be +50 years. As an equipper/bolter I said in 2012 that I was not paying more than stainless A4/316 to equip routes. I keep this opinion. If other climbers will pay for rebolting with what UIAA considers proper gear, its fine for me.

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