Tyler Thompson ticks Death of Villains (9a+)

Tyler Thompson has done Black Mirror (8c+) and the first repeat of Kai Lightner’s Death of Villains (9a+) in Hurricave, which was bolted by Joe Kinder. “ Unbelievably psyched to finally make this one happen! Spent the better part of the last two months putting in the work, building the fitness, and ultimately getting stupid close before breaking through and doing the thing. Definitely a step up in my endurance climbing. Big props to Joe and Kai!!” (c) Ryan White

Can you tell us more about the 9a+ ascent and the process behind?
I first tried DoV in November for around a week and then again in December for another week, still mostly training in the gym in between. By the end of my trip in December I had already made tries but felt like I needed just a bit more fitness. The route is incredibly sustained with almost no definitive crux. I came back in January for a longer trip and had many goes falling on the same move, around 8 moves from the ending.

I had the feeling that I was hitting my endurance limit and was close to calling it for the season. Instead, I took a few weeks break focused on climbing on new routes and at different crags. In February I returned feeling like I had broken through my endurance barrier and got very close on my first day back. After that it was just a few more sessions before I clipped the chains! Something like 20 days or possibly more spread over a couple months.