Evan Hau, 39, completes DoV (9a+)

Evan Hau, who did his first 9a+ in 2020, has repeated Death of Villains (9a+) in Hurricave. ”Super stoked to find the magic today! I came on this trip with a single purpose, to try this masterpiece of a route by Joe Kinder. I've had a lot of success in the Hurricave and I knew DoV would suit me well and be a joy to project. Even though I had done Life of Villains previously, I had to spend a lot of time learning new subtle intricacies to make the moves much more efficient before I could fathom building the necessary power endurance to send DoV. I've never spent so much time training in the gym and taking rest days on a climbing trip before.” (c) Grzegorz Tos.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the process taking it down?
I don't generally track the number of attempts on projects but because we haven't climbed at any other sectors this trip, looking back I counted 27 days on Death of Villains. However I already had an understanding of almost the entire route before arriving on this trip. Death of Villains starts of Life of Villains, a 9a that I had done previously having tried it over 2 trips. Then there are 3 bolts of new climbing before linking into The Activator, another hard 9a that I have not sent but I spent a trip working on it previously and knew it pretty well. I also have a lot of cave fitness coming in from our trip to Rodellar last fall.

What is next?
This summer will be back home in The Bow Valley to keep trying Fight Club (9a+) and maybe looking for some new routes to develop as well.