Three 8c+ (9a) by David Firnenburg
20 July 2022
Torture physique 2.0 (9a): "Nice add-on to the first anchor! Didn‘t clip the first bolt from artificial (unfortunately) side-hold crimp but did the very long move to the pockets and clipped the second higher bolt of the anchor to call it a proper ascent of this second part of Torture. The last move definitely adds difficulty. The grade checks in around 8c+/9a, I think. Probably 9a for small people. I am around 1.80m. Sooner or later the third and final extension (intergrale) is calling! Moves feel possible…"
Cabane au Canada (9a): "Superb!"
Golden Shower (8c+): "Great summer crag in Valais (if there is wind). North faced. Really nice climb with compression moves at the start, crimps in the middle and pumpy at the top."
Could you tell us more about your trip and how you managed to do these climbs so quickly?
Well, the summer heat is hitting Switzerland and I was in search of crags in the shade and where there is wind. And I wanted to finish some routes which I already tried but didn’t send. A climbing friend, Andy Winterleitner, asked me to join him in Rawyl, a famous climbing spot above Sion in Valais, on an evening session. So, on the first day we went there and I could, after once checking out the moves again, send “Cabane au Canada” (~8c+). I tried it around 2 years ago and fell at the very last move because my foot slipped. This time I could really do every move in control and didn’t get really pumped. On the second day we went to a new crag at the climbing garden of Ravoire above Martigny, also in Valais. Around 3 weeks ago I went there with Samuel Ometz the first time and I tried “Golden Shower” (~8c+). Back then I spent two sessions in the route and fell close to the top. The conditions were pretty warm though, although it’s north faced (>35 degrees in the valley plus no wind).
This time could send it second go again on the day after putting back in the quick draws. On the wall there are some projects left which can be around 9a. I already started to work on a really nice hard line.
And on the 3rd day I teamed up with Dimitri Flick, another climbing friend of mine from Zurich, to go up to Gastlosen again. This summer I already spent one day up there to check out “Torture Physique” until the second anchor (~8c+/9a) but I already failed in the first part (~8c) because of a bad beta (risky heel hook). I wanted to come back and finish it because I felt fit enough to do it. This time I went one more time through the moves to change the beta. On my first try from the bottom I fell on the last hard move right above the second anchor, so really close. And on my 3rd try this day I could stick the last hard move and clipped the anchor. The difficulty of this route really comes down to this last move. Dimitri also could sent the first part in his 3rd try which was nice. So, sending train! The weekend afterwards he ended up 5th at the Euro Lead Cup in Slovakia 👍
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