18 August 2022
Cabane au Canada 9a by Lukas Sager (17)
Lukas Sager has done Cabane au Canada (9a) in Rawyl. The 17-year-old did it in two tries after first having done La Cabane au Paradis (8c+), that shares the first seven quick draws, after five days of projecting.
โThe first part is on an overhanging steep sandstone wall requiring a lot of power in the fingers. The second part is about endurance, you have to cope with it. Then you have to fight with the last crux.
I didn't have any problems with the jump in the final part. But just after this crux, a tricky dyno move to get in a crack resisted me for many attempts. I was trying to get my fingers inside, but it was "mission impossible" for me and my big fingers. I was a little bit disappointed so I searched for a new method. I found a really small crimp just above and l was able to climb the section but it gives me a new crux.โ
โThe first part is on an overhanging steep sandstone wall requiring a lot of power in the fingers. The second part is about endurance, you have to cope with it. Then you have to fight with the last crux.
I didn't have any problems with the jump in the final part. But just after this crux, a tricky dyno move to get in a crack resisted me for many attempts. I was trying to get my fingers inside, but it was "mission impossible" for me and my big fingers. I was a little bit disappointed so I searched for a new method. I found a really small crimp just above and l was able to climb the section but it gives me a new crux.โ
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