15 October 2016
Thor's Hammer 9a (+) by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ has done Thor's Hammer 9a (+) after some 15 days of work on the 55 metre long upside-down monster in Flatanger. Magnus bolted it in 2011 and then Adam Ondra got the 9a+ FA. Later an easier sequence was found and Magnus has decided to say it is a very hard 9a like Ondra and Seb Bouin. (c) Matthew Moore McMahon
"I went to Flatanger two times this summer for working on it. This trip I did it already on the fourth day. I still had the moves dialed from the summer and the friction was much better.
This winter I plan to travel to Spain several times. We are just about to open a new climbing center in Oslo and that will take some time.
What about competitions and the Olympics?
No plan but most probably I will compete some more but just not now. Olympics within four years is absolutely one alternative. Even if I am not a fan of the format I think it is a good start.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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9a+ by Magnus Midtbo
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9a (8c+) by Midtbรถ
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11 February 2008
9a+ by Magnus Midtbo
Magnus Midtbo did La novena enmienda, 9a+ at Santa Linya, yesterday. It is a 45 meter long route, overhanging some 30, that also Sharma, Marin, Ondra and Usobiaga have done. It was put up by Dani Andrada in 2005.
25 December 2008
9a (8c+) by Midtbรถ
Magnus Midtbo gave himself a nive x-mas present by making short work of El tempo del cafe, 9a, at Alquezar. Magnus felt the route was easier though and writes in his blog: "...the route felt more like 8c+ to me. I am surprised no one have suggested a downgrade before.". Whether this route simply suโฆ
4 January 2009
8b+ flashes in Margalef
Jakob Schubert and Magnus Midtbo have flashed Doble Lluna, 8b+ in Margalef. Both say is was Soft in the grade. Magnus is #4 in the world ranking.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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