Midtbö - I've NEVER seen strength like this before

Yves Gravelle is featured in the latest Magnus Midtbo video. The 39-year-old put up two 8C’s and three 8B+’ in 2021 but later he has focused more on building strength and competing. One of his next goals is to travel to Finland and try Burden of Dreams (9A). Below is some Q & A with Yves.

How does a normal climbing/training week look?
My training schedule varies greatly depending on my current objectives, whether I’m preparing for competitions, outdoor projects, grip strength challenges, or specific contests. I always try to balance things based on available time between work, coaching, and family. For competitions specifically, I find that I need significantly more hours on the mats to feel confident — usually 14+ hours a week. I perform best when I dedicate a large amount of time to practicing comp-specific skills like coordination and balance (especially slabs). I try to structure my week by alternating between lower-intensity technical sessions and short, high-intensity efforts to allow for maximum recovery. Interestingly, I find that slab and balance-focused sessions are a great way to get in meaningful practice without accumulating too much fatigue. However, the time investment needed to see lasting improvement in these skills is quite high — you don’t get exhausted, but progress comes slowly and requires consistency.

Regardless of my objectives, I always incorporate a few finger training exercises at the start of my sessions. They help me feel physically prepared for the climbs ahead and give me a quick sense of my readiness for the day. Additionally, I include some form of mobility or stretching routine 4 to 6 times a week, usually at the end of practice, to maintain range of motion and aid recovery. When time permits, I aim for 9 to 20 hours of climbing and training per week, typically spread over 4 to 6 days, with sessions lasting anywhere from 90 minutes to 4 hours, depending on the focus. How has your strength progressed over the last five years?
During the COVID period, I shifted my focus more toward outdoor climbing and developing local areas. Since then, my grip strength training has come in cycles depending on how much time I have. When I have more availability or I’m preparing for competitions, I’ll push specific qualities based on my goals. When time is tight, I focus on maintaining my level by keeping shorter but consistent sessions, aiming for at least twice a week to stay in shape. But, to answer your question, I do feel like I’ve seen steady progress on my finger strength specially when I focus on grip training goals. I have been putting a lot of time working my technique climbing skills and mental game the past few years. I feel there more for me to gain working on those qualities than just focusing on getting stronger. How much do you climb outdoors and are you currently projecting anything hard?
Unfortunately, I haven’t climbed outside for the past two years. That said, I’m planning to get back on some local projects this season. I’m also aiming to try Burden of Dreams either this fall or next spring. My goal this year is to train specifically for that problem and give myself the best chance of success when I finally get to try it.