Théo Blass, 13, sending Panonoramix (8b+)

EDITORIAL

26 May 2023

Théo Blass did his first 8c at age 10 and last September he sent Trip tik tonik (9a) at age 12. His father Vladimir Arnaoudov, has previously explained his son's climbing background and we asked him what they have been up to this spring.

"He started the year tired and weakened after catching the flu a couple of times. He had to start training gently and building up the volume and intensity very slowly. In April he was in decent shape to start trying harder stuff. He usually likes working on hard projects but this year he decided to focus on routes that he could send quickly, mostly in our local area. He sent Elzevir (8b+), a classic fingery testpiece in Claret, Biotpo (8b+) a magnificent 8m roof with great compression moves in Claret (famously onsighted by Chris Sharma and flashed by Adam Ondra), Panonoramix (8b+/8c) short and bouldery route in St Leger, La theorie des cordes (8c) a classic stamina route in St Leger and Crazy world (8c) a sustained 30 m route with a few hard cruxes near Aniane.

He's got his eyes set on a few harder routes in the 9th degree, but he is a bit too short for them now. He can do practically all the moves of his harder projects, but using different sequences and sometimes higher feet, which makes them even harder, so he decided to be patient and while he is waiting to grow he will continue to focus on easier routes where he has more fun."
0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A

MOST COMMENTED

20 September 2023

Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

35
Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

12 January 2023

Open Your Mind 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (17)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done Open your mind (8c+) in Santa Linya. The Ukrainian made his first 8a news at age eleven when he did his first three 8c’s as we…

33

EDITORIAL

21 January 2023

Is onsight climbing on life support?

During the last few years, we have seen plenty of advancement when it comes to redpointing ability globally. In just the last three years, we saw close to 150 9a+ ascents which can be compared to only ten 9a+ ascents per year, last decade. Ten years ago, Alex Megos onsighted Estado critico (9a) but…

32

RELATED

Trip Tik Tonik 9a by Jules Marchaland

16 May 2022

Trip Tik Tonik 9a by Jules Marchaland

Jules Marchaland, who has done two 8c+ the last three weeks, has done his first 9a, Trip Tik Tonik in Gorges du Loup. "It is for sure the most beautiful route I…

1
TTT 9a by Théo Blass (12)

8 September 2022

TTT 9a by Théo Blass (12)

Théo Blass has done Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup, after trying it for some ten odd sessions. The 12-year and 9-months-old climber has now taken "the yo…

4
Trip Tik Tonik 9a by Lorenzo Bogliacino

24 September 2022

Trip Tik Tonik 9a by Lorenzo Bogliacino

Lorenzo Bogliacino has done Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup and the day after he did Tango To Nik 8c (+). ”After climbing Naturalmente (9a+) last autumn…

0