
6 January 2020
The story of 2 worlds 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done his first 8C, The Story of 2 worlds in Cresciano. It was set up by Dave Graham in 2010 and the name refers to the inflated grading system at the time.
"It took me 1 session to send the Dagger and then an additional 4 to send Story, although one of those it was raining and the entire ending was wet. Sending Story meant a lot to me because at the time I started climbing the hardest established boulders in the world were 8C and it was a grade that was only reserved for the best climbers in the world, so to me climbing a boulder that hard reaching a level in my own climbing that I never thought I would be able to achieve.
Not only that, but the intricacy of the movement of the boulder and the role it played in the possible shift of the 8C grade (since it was so much harder than other 8C's at the time with the old beta) is something that has intrigued me since I first saw videos of the line and learned about its history."
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Paint it Black 8C by Austin Purdy
Austin Purdy has done Paint it Black (8C) in RMNP (CO). Interestingly, in the end it came down to some fingernails optimization that Austin describes below. Preโฆ
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Austin Purdy jumps from 7c+ to doing Moonshine 9a
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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