1 March 2024

Gabri Moroni sends La Rambla (9a+)

Gabriele Moroni has repeated La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. Originally it was Alexander Huber's project and in 1994 he made it to the first anchor. In 2003, Ramon Julian Puigblanque continued six meters by traversing right towards La Reina Mora. It has been logged 26 times in the database and is considered one of the most beautiful cutting-edge lines in Spain.

The 36-year-old started making headlines in 2004 when he won the bronze at the European Bouldering Championship. Prior to that break-out success, in Lead, he had already won three European Youth Cups as well as the Youth World Championship. In 2018, the Italian finished his competition career after having won a Boulder WC that same year.

Last year he made a brief WC comeback. “I am not going to do any of the WC’s this year. I will be coaching at some of the WC’s like I did the previous years. My comeback last year was not planned. I got asked from the federation if I want to try to get selected for the OQS. But my last minute training was not enough. I got some decent results in bouldering (once in top 25) but not very good in lead (first lead comps [for me] in 14years).”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried it for some days during the 2022/23 New Years trip. Then again for a few days at the start of the month and finally on my second day of the last mini trip last week. The ascent came on a very windy day. I knew I had a pretty good chance to do it since I was already very close on my previous trip. I felt really good on the morning of the send. My only concern was the glacial wind conditions but eventually, I kept it together.

Did you do any special preparation for the send?
I tried to train specifically in January doing some longer laps, indoor routes and of course some power training on the board.

What is next for you?
I can't really plan much due to the work schedule. I am the head setter at Urban Wall in Milano. For sure I'd love to spend some weekends in Arco on a couple of routes I bolted last fall.
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