11 December 2022

The most logged route in 2022: Crosta pànic 7a+

Crosta pànic (7a+) in Siurana is the most logged route on 8a in 2022, with 138 ascents. In total, it has been logged 1 449 times, out of which close to 60 % onsights. The popularity comes probably from a combination of; the quality, it being a bit soft for the grade, that the sector El pati has a short approach and that it is surrounded by many other high quality climbs as well as high graded routes like La Rambla (9a+). The 25m first pitch starts almost vertical on reddish pocketed and chalked holds. Then there is a roof on jugs until a relatively hard anchor clip. There is also a 15m 7c extension so in practice the first pitch has been done several times more in 2022. This climb, which has become one of the highest-ranked climbs in the world, was bolted by T. Albero in 2001.

The picture is from Ben Oveson who did it in 2016, and commented:
“Awesome climb, sent 3rd go. Lots of rests and a few techy moves for 25 meters then a V2 5 meter jug roof at the end. 7a+ guide book. Seeing as the moves on lame chuche baby's start where just as hard and crosta had no hands rests every 15 feet 7a+ is ambitious.

Radina Popova: “Pure joy and flow! This route has everything, starting with a technical vertical slab climbing, a crux somewhere on the 4th QD and then moving to a big jugs overhang climb paradise. Could have been my first 7a+ onsight but I got the Crosta panic attack in clipping the last bolt.”
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