Tereza Širůčková ticks La Rubia (8c+)

Tereza Širůčková, who was #14 in the Euro Boulder & Lead Championship last year, has completed La Rubia (8c+) in Villanueva del Rosario.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
La Rubia is a 50-meter route with 145 moves, located in the Chillam Balam sector, which I visited for the first time. Initially, I had my eyes set on a different route, but La Rubia was the first line that caught my eyes on our first day there, so I decided to give it a try.

It was the first route I attempted that was harder than 8b+. After working out the moves, I felt like I’d never be able to climb it. The route is full of pinches, and there were maybe three holds that were really my type. I was ready to give up, because it seemed pointless to keep struggling on the lower boulder section (around move 60). Instead, I wanted to climb easier routes to explore the area as much as possible and enjoy the process of discovering new rock and moves, which I love.

But my coach (Petr Klofáč) laughed at me, saying I just didn’t know how to project properly. That motivate me to keep trying and I gave it a chance. The first time I climbed through the lower boulder, I thought I could fall on any of the following moves. I fell “just” four moves from the top, which was so frustrating, but also gave me hope that it was possible. In the end, I sent the route on the 8th climbing day and my 16th attempt. I still can’t quite believe it!

What is your climbing background?
I’m a member of the Czech national climbing team and a university student. Right now, I’m mainly focused on competition climbing, but I absolutely love climbing on rock. Whenever training and time allow, I try to get outdoors as much as possible. I usually manage to find time for a bigger climbing trip (a week or two) about twice a year. Then I’m happy if I am possible to visit my homecrag, which is the Moravian Karst, or go for weekend trips a little farther away.