7 September 2022
Redoublement dโeffort 9a by Tanguy Merard (18)
Tanguy Merard, who did La moustache qui fรขche (9a+) in July, has done the second ascent of Redoublement d'effort (9a) in La Roche-de-Rame. In June, the 18-year-old was #3 in a Euro Youth Cup.
"I heard about this route when my friend Diego Fourbet did the FA a few years ago. Then I lived two years in Brianรงon to climb with a great team and suddenly I was able to try it. In my first year there (2020) I was able to do La proue debridรฉe (8c+) which is the start of Redoublement d'effort (9a). At the end of the year I started to try and put 3/4 sessions into it with.
This spring I did not try because I did a lot of competitions. I went back on it when I worked as a server in Ailefroide this summer. In my first session on it, I had trouble and I arrived pumped at the crux. From the second session, I fell at the last movement. Then I did a little Moonboard at Mรฉlissa's (Le Nevรฉ) in La Roche, rested a bit and it went down on the 3rd session.
Now I am concentrating on Biographie (9a+). Last week I passed the crux for the 2nd time and I fell one move before the final jug. I am so happy to finally have made this progress on that route. Just have to be patient and love it ๐"
"I heard about this route when my friend Diego Fourbet did the FA a few years ago. Then I lived two years in Brianรงon to climb with a great team and suddenly I was able to try it. In my first year there (2020) I was able to do La proue debridรฉe (8c+) which is the start of Redoublement d'effort (9a). At the end of the year I started to try and put 3/4 sessions into it with.
This spring I did not try because I did a lot of competitions. I went back on it when I worked as a server in Ailefroide this summer. In my first session on it, I had trouble and I arrived pumped at the crux. From the second session, I fell at the last movement. Then I did a little Moonboard at Mรฉlissa's (Le Nevรฉ) in La Roche, rested a bit and it went down on the 3rd session.
Now I am concentrating on Biographie (9a+). Last week I passed the crux for the 2nd time and I fell one move before the final jug. I am so happy to finally have made this progress on that route. Just have to be patient and love it ๐"
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