1 December 2024
Svecova does Supertussi Low (8B+) and Graceland 8B (+)
Jana Svecova reports from her one month trip to Brione where she sent Pamplemousse (8A) , Forever More sit (8A+) and Supertussi Low (8B+). In the VL ranking game she is #4, including having done one 8C boulder.
โFrom my last visit of Brione, there was one boulder I had started working on but couldnโt complete due to a pulley injury that prevented me from pulling properly. That boulder was Pamplemousse, originally graded 8A but now more commonly settled at 7C+. I managed to send it on my first day in Brione on my third attempt, and I couldnโt have asked for a better start to the trip.
The next boulder I chose as a "warm-up" to get familiar with the local rock was Forever More. I sent this one surprisingly quicklyโin about 1.5 hoursโso the trip continued really well! ๐
Feeling confident after such a strong start, I dove straight into my main project: Supertussi Low (8B+). Low, because I started from two lowest holds possible and other guys sat under the boulder and started from where they can reach so they skipped one move.
I took a rest day before tackling it, as I had already spent three sessions on this boulder during my last visit to Brione. This year, I felt much stronger and thought the process would be quickerโbut the reality was quite different.
I ended up spending almost my entire trip on this boulder, but the experience taught me so much. For example, if I can do the move but it feels hard and uncomfortable during the projecting process, keep seeking different beta until you figure out every detail and the moves feel easy/doable even if you add the moves before. Or how can I motivate myself again to finish a boulder when Iโm frustrated that I canโt try any other boulder, especially since I thought Iโd complete it in a maximum of three sessions on this trip.โจ Once I regained my motivation, it took just two more sessions to send the boulderโan amazing moment!
Later the 27-year-old did, Graceland (8B+) in Allgรคu, giving it a personal 8B grade.
โSo the boulder Graceland you do the first move with your right hand and you go to quite a good hold. From there you do very stretchy move, with your left hand, to a lower hole and bump again to higher one and with your right hand again to the lower hole from where you continue up the boulder. I couldn 't these stretchy moves so I figured our my own beta where from the starting holds I do a cross into kinda okey hold, then grab a small, sharp crimp and I go to the lower hole with my right hand and with left to the higher one and I am in the same position as the guys that could reach those moves above. With my "short person" beta probably 8B?โ
โFrom my last visit of Brione, there was one boulder I had started working on but couldnโt complete due to a pulley injury that prevented me from pulling properly. That boulder was Pamplemousse, originally graded 8A but now more commonly settled at 7C+. I managed to send it on my first day in Brione on my third attempt, and I couldnโt have asked for a better start to the trip.
The next boulder I chose as a "warm-up" to get familiar with the local rock was Forever More. I sent this one surprisingly quicklyโin about 1.5 hoursโso the trip continued really well! ๐
Feeling confident after such a strong start, I dove straight into my main project: Supertussi Low (8B+). Low, because I started from two lowest holds possible and other guys sat under the boulder and started from where they can reach so they skipped one move.
I took a rest day before tackling it, as I had already spent three sessions on this boulder during my last visit to Brione. This year, I felt much stronger and thought the process would be quickerโbut the reality was quite different.
I ended up spending almost my entire trip on this boulder, but the experience taught me so much. For example, if I can do the move but it feels hard and uncomfortable during the projecting process, keep seeking different beta until you figure out every detail and the moves feel easy/doable even if you add the moves before. Or how can I motivate myself again to finish a boulder when Iโm frustrated that I canโt try any other boulder, especially since I thought Iโd complete it in a maximum of three sessions on this trip.โจ Once I regained my motivation, it took just two more sessions to send the boulderโan amazing moment!
Later the 27-year-old did, Graceland (8B+) in Allgรคu, giving it a personal 8B grade.
โSo the boulder Graceland you do the first move with your right hand and you go to quite a good hold. From there you do very stretchy move, with your left hand, to a lower hole and bump again to higher one and with your right hand again to the lower hole from where you continue up the boulder. I couldn 't these stretchy moves so I figured our my own beta where from the starting holds I do a cross into kinda okey hold, then grab a small, sharp crimp and I go to the lower hole with my right hand and with left to the higher one and I am in the same position as the guys that could reach those moves above. With my "short person" beta probably 8B?โ
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
16 February 2023
Michaela Kiersch does Forever More (sit) 8A+
Michaela Kiersch reports with an Insta video that she has done Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. She has now done nine boulders 8A to 8A+ in the last ten days. โฆ
Lujza Michalkova and Sara ล imekova have done Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. (c) Ado Capko
Sara (in the picture): The first time I touched this boulder I kneโฆ
14 January 2026
Amรฉlie Kรคgi, 14, flashes Catatonica (8A)
Amรฉlie Kรคgi has during a week in Brione done five 8Aโs and Salamandre (8A+) including as flash of Catatonica (8A). The 14-year-old won the Switzerland nationalsโฆ
Related news
16 February 2023
Michaela Kiersch does Forever More (sit) 8A+
Michaela Kiersch reports with an Insta video that she has done Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. She has now done nine boulders 8A to 8A+ in the last ten days. โฆ
Lujza Michalkova and Sara ล imekova have done Forever More sit (8A+) in Brione. (c) Ado Capko
Sara (in the picture): The first time I touched this boulder I kneโฆ
14 January 2026
Amรฉlie Kรคgi, 14, flashes Catatonica (8A)
Amรฉlie Kรคgi has during a week in Brione done five 8Aโs and Salamandre (8A+) including as flash of Catatonica (8A). The 14-year-old won the Switzerland nationalsโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ