Simekova and Michalkova, both 17, send their first 8A+!

Lujza Michalkova and Sara Šimekova have done Forever More sit start (8A+) in Brione. (c) Ado Capko

Sara (in the picture): The first time I touched this boulder I knew it was finally something made for me. The first time I was in Brione was last fall. I climbed here my first 7A, first 7B even my first 7C, all in one week. This place is magical for me. When I came a week ago with our team, I just wanted to climb as many 7B and 7C's as possible. But my plan didn't really work, there was always one move missing. I was frustrated and I just wanted to try something that I will enjoy. One girl recommended me Forever more, but I didn't believe I can climb 8A.

After the week of nothing I just wanted to try the moves and didn't care about the grade or the ascent. After a while, I had almost all the moves. I was shocked. I struggled for a while with the mantle, but after a few tries, I found my beta. The only move missing was this dynamic move to the small crimp. After a few really close tries, I stuck it and continued climbing. This was the stand 8A version. I tried the Sit start afterwards but my skin was too bad to give it a proper try.
We came there again on the next day after a rest day. The first try was just warming up. On the second try I stuck the hard move and went up. But my leg slipped when I was going up. On the third try, I was able to climb this boulder. Now I am preparing for European competitions. I am trying to find some sponsors that would help me on my way.

Lujza: I tried the boulder Forever more on Saturday for the first time, because my friend Sára Šimeková suggested it. Even though I didn't have much hope, cause I was ill and pretty tired, I just went for it and tried it again and again. The mantel went pretty quickly (2nd try), but the first two moves were the real deal. You have to take two crimps, push into your foot in the opposite direction while being almost in a horizontal position and cross over with your right hand to a crimpy pinch. After this you have to pinch it hard, put your right foot higher, do a bad toehook with your left and do a long move to the next crimp, concentrating on the right foot to stay on the wall. I managed to do the stand start (8A, basically the 8A+ without the first move) and wanted to do the sit start as well, because I did all the moves, but it got dark and we didn't have time nor energy anymore.

We're climbing 1+1, meaning we have one climbing day and then one restday, so on Sunday we rested, did some school stuff and took a hike. Monday was the day, I knew it, just my skin didn't feel like it. We warmed up, the conditions were good and it was time. Or maybe not... I kept falling in the second move, slipping of the crimp with my left hand. Slowly my ring finger started bleeding, then index finger and then my middle finger. All taped up I tried it more times and suddenly I just stuck it. And when I stick the problem I never let go of the rock, so there it was, after that big fight, I sent it. All the pain in my fingers and my muscles went magically away and all I felt was happiness :)