
30 September 2024
Stefano Carnati ticks Flow State 8C (+)
Stefano Carnati has sent Flow State (8C) in Val daone. The 26-year-old is one of the very few climbers who both have done a 9b route as well as an 8C+ boulder.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Although itโs not that far from my home, I only visited this area for the first time last year. This spring, when I found out that Pietro Vidi had climbed this line, I was psyched to come back and put some effort into it. The boulder follows a great roof, combining the first and hardest part of โGrizzlyโ with โFlowโ (both in the 8B range) for a total of 15 moves. The crux is holding the final sloper.
After completing both individual lines a few weeks ago, I immediately started trying to link them, and during my third session, I was able to climb it! Overall Daone is a nice area that offers some good quality problems. Big Illusion (8C) is another hard one by Stefano Scarperi, which still awaits a second ascent. I hope to find the time to return before the snow comes and make some tries on this as well!
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Although itโs not that far from my home, I only visited this area for the first time last year. This spring, when I found out that Pietro Vidi had climbed this line, I was psyched to come back and put some effort into it. The boulder follows a great roof, combining the first and hardest part of โGrizzlyโ with โFlowโ (both in the 8B range) for a total of 15 moves. The crux is holding the final sloper.
After completing both individual lines a few weeks ago, I immediately started trying to link them, and during my third session, I was able to climb it! Overall Daone is a nice area that offers some good quality problems. Big Illusion (8C) is another hard one by Stefano Scarperi, which still awaits a second ascent. I hope to find the time to return before the snow comes and make some tries on this as well!
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