
1 November 2024
Gio Placci does Flow State 8C (+)
Gio Placci, who was #12 in the Briancon World Cup, has completed Flow State (8C) in Val daone. It is said to be easier for the taller climbers but the 166 cm long only needed four sessions for the send. (c) Crimp-Films
โWorld class. Shoutout to my bro Pietro Vidi for the F.A. About the grade I felt the same of the other 8C I did.โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent and what was most challenging for you?
For sure the last move, a big move to a sloper. After the comp season Iโm focusing on sport climbing but the heat in Arco forced me to go to Val daone, a bouldering spot way colder than Arco. The boulder is king line!
What is next?
Erebor (9b), I did already 3 sessions and it felt very good.
How does a normal climbing/training week look like?
3 days on and 1 day off. Always double sessions. Most of my days are 6h training. Interval training, routes, circuits, bouldering and campus.
How much outdoors climbing in a normal week?
I just do two months when the comp season is over.
โWorld class. Shoutout to my bro Pietro Vidi for the F.A. About the grade I felt the same of the other 8C I did.โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent and what was most challenging for you?
For sure the last move, a big move to a sloper. After the comp season Iโm focusing on sport climbing but the heat in Arco forced me to go to Val daone, a bouldering spot way colder than Arco. The boulder is king line!
What is next?
Erebor (9b), I did already 3 sessions and it felt very good.
How does a normal climbing/training week look like?
3 days on and 1 day off. Always double sessions. Most of my days are 6h training. Interval training, routes, circuits, bouldering and campus.
How much outdoors climbing in a normal week?
I just do two months when the comp season is over.
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