Stefano Carnati does two 9a’s in a day

Stefano Carnati, with 32 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has had some amazing days in La Stazione where he first flashed an 8c and then a couple days later sent two 9a’s during the same session.

Paranoid (8c) - ”Amazing line! Not the hardest out there, but a perfect way to get back into the flow of endurance routes. Got insanely pumped on the top half but managed to fight it out!”

Vivi si muore (9a+) - ”Great line with a powerful boulder right off the start, then sustained climbing with a decent rest before the final spicy crux of "Paranoid Android". Took around 10 tries in total. Best of the crag in my opinion. Feels like a solid 9a to me. First of the day!”

Prima Classe (9a) - ”Maybe the easiest 9 of the crag, but still super resistant. Just keeps getting harder the higher you go. First tried it last year, then left it until this weekend. Stoked to send it the same day as "Vivi si muore", a perfect way to wrap up an amazing session!”

How can you best explain your recent peak?
Honestly, I’m still a bit confused about this peak. After the Rocklands trip I actually felt pretty rusty, but I quickly got motivated to rebuild some endurance. “La mola mola” turned out to be the perfect transition back to routes. Besides a few solid training days, I think doing juggy circuits on the Kilter board was surprisingly enough to get me going. I had already visited La Stazione last year after Slovenia, when shape was very good, so this year I decided to restart there. I managed to flash the beautiful and very long “Paranoid”, and then I put my focus on “Vivi si muore”. On Saturday I didn’t feel great, but on Sunday conditions improved and so did my climbing. I sent “Vivi si muore” first try of the day, and with some energy left I gave “Prima classe” a try and it went down immediately.

I also fell off the very last hard move on Trainspotting (9a+) which I had tried last year. A nice reminder that gravity was still working that day, haha. Hopefully I’ll get back on it soon and maybe even push my personal best a little further.