Lorenzo Bogliacino opens Prima Classe (9a)

Lorenzo Bogliacino, who last year sent Naturalmente (9a+), has done the FA of Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
During the early summer I was struggling to find motivation to climb on a rope due to the heat, so I was doing long walks in La Stazione. I stumbled upon a cool overhanging wall with crimps and decided to try to bolt some routes. Since I never equipped anything I asked my friend Carlo Giuliberti to teach me the art and help me develop the crag. Thanks to his experience and intuition the new crag started to take a shape and immediately he found the amazing line that eventually became Prima Classe.

I also started to love the art of bolting routes and we shared amazing days of work and fun! After a summer spent bouldering and escaping the heat I committed seriously to try the route and I was able to make the FA after 10 days of work. I thought a couple of weeks about the grade after the FA but honestly I feel 9a is appropriate and well deserved for this amazing and obviously completely natural piece of rock. There is still potential for hard routes at the crag and I hope to keep bolting and developing it in the future!

At the moment there are about 15 routes of which some projects. There are still space for some connections and variation but the main wall is mostly finished. Prima classe is a bit less steep but the main wall is about 40/50 degrees overhanging. The routes are about 30 meters long.