Noah Wheeler repeats Shaolin (9A)

Noah Wheeler, who started the year by doing Return of the Sleepwalker (9A), has done the second ascent of Sean Bailey’s, Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon. ”Really enjoyed the process on this incredibly aesthetic and plain fun line. 7 days in January, 7 in late Feb/early March. Difficult 8B (some argue 8B+) into 1 move 8A+/8B into 1 move 8A/8A+ implies soft 9A to me. In iso, for the last few sessions, I was able to climb the intro boulder 95% of the time, the crux throw 75% of the time, and the last move 100% of the time. Yet linking these sections together felt super improbable. I really had to push for my determination to trump my expectations.”

In 2023, Noah sent only one 8C and now the 22-year-old is the new #1 in the world ranking game. Showing excellent form he also did Trieste (8B+). ”Sent an hour or so after the big proj to make for my proudest day yet!”

Can you tell us more about the process during the last sessions?
Made it to the last move from the start 3 times. 1st time, I dry fired immediately. 2nd and 3rd time I was too numb and my fingers hurt too much. That was over 2 different sessions. Came back 3 days after I had fallen at the last move twice and I was pretty confident that, if I stuck the crux move, I had the move dialed enough to take it to the top. When I got there, I immediately flowed into the next move, barely thinking enough to let my nerves get a hold of me. Then I just had to keep it together for the heady slab and it was over.