18 November 2023
Simon Lorenzi's Alphane mini-doc
Simon Lorenzi, who made the FA of Soudain seul (9A) in 2021 after some 25 sessions, needed some 20 sessions to send Alphane (9A) last year. "Soudain Seul was harder to send for me. But as you know climbing is a matter of style."
The sending process of Alphane could probably have been quicker as he also had to tackle injury and skin problems as well as bad conditions. After he did it in two parts in August after just five sessions, he got a shoulder injury that made it impossible to fully extend his arm for a month. Then he injured his left index finger meaning that he only focused on the second half while working on it in November. Then in December, he made one more trip and was close to sending but got skin problems.
"It was a roller coaster because I opened my right index finger at my first attempt of the day. I had this problem 10 days ago and didn't find a solution to try with tape. Finally, I put one piece of tape in a strange way and I sent it on my first try with the tape. I went from being depressed about my skin to sending in like 5 min."
The sending process of Alphane could probably have been quicker as he also had to tackle injury and skin problems as well as bad conditions. After he did it in two parts in August after just five sessions, he got a shoulder injury that made it impossible to fully extend his arm for a month. Then he injured his left index finger meaning that he only focused on the second half while working on it in November. Then in December, he made one more trip and was close to sending but got skin problems.
"It was a roller coaster because I opened my right index finger at my first attempt of the day. I had this problem 10 days ago and didn't find a solution to try with tape. Finally, I put one piece of tape in a strange way and I sent it on my first try with the tape. I went from being depressed about my skin to sending in like 5 min."
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Simon Lorenzi, who last year did the FA of Soudain seul (9A) after 26 sessions, reports on Insta that he linked Shawn Raboutou's Alpahane 9A in two parts after just five warm sessions. "The line and moves are amazing. ๐It's an incredible mix of strength, tension and technicity!
I've found the stylโฆ
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8aโs Boulderers of 2022
1. Katie Lamb - USA
Katie has been the leader of the 8a boulder ranking for almost two years. In spite of that, the 24-year-old has been under the radar with, as an example, only 41 posts on Insta. In 2022, she did three 8B+ and five 8B's. Here is a recent recent portrait video featuring her fifth 8โฆ
Nico Pelorson reports with Insta videos that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico and Squalo Bianco (8B+) in Valle Bavona.
Can you tell uโฆ
Favorites
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