Siara Fabbri ticks Compass North (8B+)

Siara Fabbri has sent Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. The 30-year-old, who is working full-time as an antimatter researcher, started climbing at age 21 and did her first 8A just 14 months ago. Since then, Fabbri has sent 19 boulders 8A and harder also including New base line (8B+) which she did last year.

"It got cold and sticky and I crimped hard! First go of the day with Simo [Tenteri], so numbed out and flash pumped on the wet easy top. Psyched to do this one! No more splitting on the tiny crimps." (c) Simone Tenteri

Can you tell us more about Compass North?
The crux of the boulder is super crimpy and really steep, and the entire line is quite long (16 hand movements to the jug before the easy topout). It starts in the bottom of the cave on the same start hold as Fuck the System, then travels out this 50’ish degree board-like roof. I checked the moves last year and started trying this year. The crux for me is 3 moves towards the bottom (I posted a video of these on my insta account), the first of which is a big (for me) cross move off a small right hand crimp to another sharp crimp, then from these two bad crimps cutting feet and moving them, then matching the right hand into a weird small split pocket from bad feet. The hardest move for me was forsure the cutloose, and I struggled to do this move on its own for a few sessions. In August when we had the freak super cold weekend in the Alps regions, and it was 0 at night in Fionnay, I finally did this move like first go and could do it on repeat. The next weekend I came back and it was hot again, and I could barely repeat it. So I realized conditions on this one are a gamechanger for me!

With the moves down and some good links, I felt I could send but needed the right skin and cold temps. A few times I came back and it was still too hot or I split - one time twice on the same finger. Then it got really cold recently, my skin was good, I didn't practice too much in fear of splitting, and first go of the day I did it. The easier top part was soaking wet and mossy, and I was crazy numb and flashpumped so had to shake for so long on a ledge. Damn it feels good to do this one! Forsure the hardest I've had to crimp on a block, and psyched to not split on these sharp holds anymore!