28 March 2023

Siara Fabbri keeps the sends coming with, Toy Boy (8A+)

Siara Fabbri has done Toy Boy (8A+) in Val di Mello. "Great day out with Simo and good psyche/send train with Kim! Dialled the 2nd crux beta then sent, really nice line and movement!" (c) Simone Tentori

What's the climbing like on Toy Boy?
Toyboy is a really fun line traversing a smooth crimpy crack feature in a roof and then into some easier overhanging climbing. The 1st crux is a cool move off a small slopey crimp with a sort of double drop knee and tiny upside-down toe hook, and the 2nd crux is a tricky cross move. I fell here on my flash go during my first quick session on it. We came back and after dialling the beta here and with some send train psyche after Kim I sent 2nd try :). A little lesson I took from this block is that I should always tick a far/hard-to-reach hold at the closest point I can grab something!
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8a has published a “Climber of the Year” list for the past 22 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to multi-disciplin climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. …