16 January 2022

Sharma speculates Golpe de estado being 9b+

Chris Sharma talks about his Golpe de Estado (9b) in Siurana on Insta. "Could it have actually been the worlds first 9b+ ???🤷‍♂️ Either way, it’s such a badass route and would be so cool to see some other top climbers check it out."

Chris says he is surprised that no climber had tried it for a longer period. It is a "powerful and explosive 9a+" that goes into the hard part of Estado Critico 9a. The FA was done in 2008 and then Adam Ondra did the only repeat in 2010 when he was 17 years old.

Ondra: "HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After the first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischievous. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina)."

The first 9b+ suggestion was made for Chilam Balam but today it is considered a very hard 9a+. As it stands Ondra's Change (9b+) from 2012 is today considered the first 9b+ in the world. The only repeat was done in 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Related
Change P2 9a by Seb Bouin

Sebastein Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change P2 9a in Flatanger. He explains that Adam Ondra's Change (9b+) can be divided into two pitches, 9a+ and…

Change P1 9a+ by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN, who in the last week has done one 9a+ and one 9a+ (b) in Flatanger, has sent Change P1 (9a+). Adam Ondra did the FA ten years ago and it is the…

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change (9b+) in Flatanger. (c) Marco Müller Adam Ondra established the 55m route in 2012 as the first 9b+ in…