Sharma speculates Golpe de estado being 9b+

EDITORIAL

16 January 2022

Chris Sharma talks about his Golpe de Estado (9b) in Siurana on Insta. "Could it have actually been the worlds first 9b+ ???🤷‍♂️ Either way, it’s such a badass route and would be so cool to see some other top climbers check it out."

Chris says he is surprised that no climber had tried it for a longer period. It is a "powerful and explosive 9a+" that goes into the hard part of Estado Critico 9a. The FA was done in 2008 and then Adam Ondra did the only repeat in 2010 when he was 17 years old.

Ondra: "HUGE relief for me, mission accomplished despite various obstacles - notoriously strong wind, injury, flu and stomach ache just before the second trip (thus I was out of shape). After the first day in the route I did not expect I would have to dedicate so much time, but proved to be really hard and mischievous. 29 tries (mental torture for me!) during 14 days, but some days only go when I found out it is just too windy to climb at 6th bolt. I do not say it is hard 9b after breaking the hold, but 100% it is 9b now (a bit harder than Marina)."

The first 9b+ suggestion was made for Chilam Balam but today it is considered a very hard 9a+. As it stands Ondra's Change (9b+) from 2012 is today considered the first 9b+ in the world. The only repeat was done in 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi.

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