Seb Bouin makes the FA of Jamming Destruction (9a+/b)
"After realizing my hardest flash ever in Saint Auban, I was checking out some other projects at the same crag. There was a cool one on the left side of the crag bolted again by Adrien Boulon called "Destruction". I managed to climb this project in 3 goes, and it should be around 8c+. This route starts on the left side of the cave and I also saw there would be the possibility for a direct start from the lower part of the cave, so I bolted it. It looks a bit like "The big Island" boulder in fontainebleau. I was thinking it might be too hard at the beginning. But after few goes I found some crazy beta. Stay tuned for the video.
There is one particularity in this route : there is a crux with a full hand jam where you really need to wear a crack glove. If not, it feels impossible. As the crack glove is annoying for climbing hard on slopers, I didn't want to wear it for the first part. The problem was to put it before the second part and the hand jam crux. I found a kneebar right before the second crux, and I was able to put the crack glove on at this moment. I also found a kneebar right after the hand jam crux, where I was able to remove the crack glove. It's a bit of logistics, but it doesn't work if not. So, the first part should be around 8c+/9a, and then you still have to do the second 8c+ part. By my estimation, the full route adds up to be around 9a+/b”
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Seb Bouin interview
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+, Nordic Marathon 9b/+ and he also repeated Change 9b+. (c) Clarisse…
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add t…
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Seb Bouin interview
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+, Nordic Marathon 9b/+ and he also repeated Change 9b+. (c) Clarisse…
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add t…
Seb Bouin does Bibliographie (9b+)
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