30 August 2023
Seb Bouin makes the FA of Jamming Destruction (9a+/b)
Sebastien BOUIN has established a new route at the crag of St Auban naming it โJamming Destructionโ and proposing a grade of 9a+/b.
The route, which features a hand-jam crux, is the direct start to an existing project that had been bolted by local climber Adrian Boulon. (c) Clarisse Bompard
"After realizing my hardest flash ever in Saint Auban, I was checking out some other projects at the same crag. There was a cool one on the left side of the crag bolted again by Adrien Boulon called "Destruction". I managed to climb this project in 3 goes, and it should be around 8c+. This route starts on the left side of the cave and I also saw there would be the possibility for a direct start from the lower part of the cave, so I bolted it. It looks a bit like "The big Island" boulder in fontainebleau. I was thinking it might be too hard at the beginning. But after few goes I found some crazy beta. Stay tuned for the video.
There is one particularity in this route : there is a crux with a full hand jam where you really need to wear a crack glove. If not, it feels impossible. As the crack glove is annoying for climbing hard on slopers, I didn't want to wear it for the first part. The problem was to put it before the second part and the hand jam crux. I found a kneebar right before the second crux, and I was able to put the crack glove on at this moment. I also found a kneebar right after the hand jam crux, where I was able to remove the crack glove. It's a bit of logistics, but it doesn't work if not. So, the first part should be around 8c+/9a, and then you still have to do the second 8c+ part. By my estimation, the full route adds up to be around 9a+/bโ
"After realizing my hardest flash ever in Saint Auban, I was checking out some other projects at the same crag. There was a cool one on the left side of the crag bolted again by Adrien Boulon called "Destruction". I managed to climb this project in 3 goes, and it should be around 8c+. This route starts on the left side of the cave and I also saw there would be the possibility for a direct start from the lower part of the cave, so I bolted it. It looks a bit like "The big Island" boulder in fontainebleau. I was thinking it might be too hard at the beginning. But after few goes I found some crazy beta. Stay tuned for the video.
There is one particularity in this route : there is a crux with a full hand jam where you really need to wear a crack glove. If not, it feels impossible. As the crack glove is annoying for climbing hard on slopers, I didn't want to wear it for the first part. The problem was to put it before the second part and the hand jam crux. I found a kneebar right before the second crux, and I was able to put the crack glove on at this moment. I also found a kneebar right after the hand jam crux, where I was able to remove the crack glove. It's a bit of logistics, but it doesn't work if not. So, the first part should be around 8c+/9a, and then you still have to do the second 8c+ part. By my estimation, the full route adds up to be around 9a+/bโ
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