Vertical-Life
Seb Bouin does Bibliographie (9b+)
”Bibliograpghie was a big goal for this year. Since Alex did the first ascent of this one, I was really psyched to try something really hard from someone else, here in France. Even if Céüse is very far away from my own natural climbing style. I was really motivated to go through the process on Bibliographie. I am usually alone when trying my projects in France and not many people try them, but Biblio was something different. You know, a 9b+ in my ‘local’ area, already with 3 ascents by top climbers... it was obvious that I had to try it. During the process, I fell 11 times at the top of the route (after the main crux). I think I underestimated this last part of the route. It doesn't look or feel that hard when you do this single section in isolation. Yet, when you are coming from the ground, it was way different. I remember Sean Bailey actually fell 13 times up there, so I am happy that he still holds the record ;-).
Conditions were quite challenging this year. It was raining almost every day, and we had to wait, patiently, for a good window to make an attempt. Bibliographie is not a route that particularly suits my strengths, so it was a great challenge to do a 9b+ on tiny crimps for me. But, now it's time to go back to something a little more my style ;-).”
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Matty Hong's Biographie (9a+) back-story
Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in…
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add t…
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (8c+) at The Fortress of Solitude. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project K…
Matty Hong's Biographie (9a+) back-story
Matty Hong has sent Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. This was the 19th ascent of Chris Sharma's iconic route from 2001 which was bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in…
Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love (9b+), Nordic Marathon (9b/+) and he also repeated Change (9b+). Add t…
Matt Segall sends Kryptonite, 9a
Matt Segal, world-class trad and big wall climber, has done Kryptonite (8c+) at The Fortress of Solitude. He first tried it in 2003 and then started working on it last year. Matt took a little time to answer a few questions we had. So basically, you came back 19 years later and started to project K…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…