Vertical-Life
Seb Berthe does Beyond (9a+)
”Beyond got two ascents in 2019 by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez and was graded 9a. In 2020 a hold broke in the second crux and the section got significantly harder (went from 7B to 7C+ boulder), which brought the grade of the whole route to 9a+. I did the 3rd ascent of this version after Seb Bouin and Tanguy Merard.
Beyond is probably one of the best of this grade in France and even in Europe: Huge overhang, big dropknees, dynos, kneebars, amazing tufas… The route can be broken down in severals section: a first 7c part (about 8m), crux 1 (around 7C+ boulder): 4 moves on crimps followed by big dyno to a good tufa, a good rest with kneebars, 12 transition moves (around 7B+ boulder), crux 2 (around 7C+ boulder): pulling hard with a left crimpy undercling and a big move with a dropknee to a small hold. About the grade, the route suits my style quite well, and it felt super hard at the beginning, but I made fast progress and after a few sessions it didn’t feel that hard. I think it is a low-end 9a+. There is a second pitch which is graded 9b/+ also first ascended by Seb Bouin in 2020. Maybe a future project ?!
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Dylan Chuat climbs Bouin's Beyond (9a+)
Dylan Chuat, who's already done 16 routes graded 9a to 9a+, has repeated Seb Bouin's Beyond 9a+ in Pic St Loup, giving it an upgrade to 9a+ due to a broken hold…
Tanguy Merard ticks Beyond 9a (+)
Tanguy Merard has completed the second ascent of Seb Bouin’s Beyond 9a (+) in Pic St Loup. With this redpoint, the 19-year-old has done seven routes 9a and hard…
Three 8A's by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch, who just last week did the 35m endurance test piece La Rambla (9a+), reports with Insta videos that during her first two days in Brione she ha…
Dylan Chuat climbs Bouin's Beyond (9a+)
Dylan Chuat, who's already done 16 routes graded 9a to 9a+, has repeated Seb Bouin's Beyond 9a+ in Pic St Loup, giving it an upgrade to 9a+ due to a broken hold…
Tanguy Merard ticks Beyond 9a (+)
Tanguy Merard has completed the second ascent of Seb Bouin’s Beyond 9a (+) in Pic St Loup. With this redpoint, the 19-year-old has done seven routes 9a and hard…
Three 8A's by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch, who just last week did the 35m endurance test piece La Rambla (9a+), reports with Insta videos that during her first two days in Brione she ha…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…