31 August 2023
Tanguy Merard ticks Beyond 9a (+)
Tanguy Merard has completed the second ascent of Seb Bouinโs Beyond 9a (+) in Pic St Loup. With this redpoint, the 19-year-old has done seven routes 9a and harder in just the last month. (c) Igor Martinez
"It was Seb Bouin's video in Beyond integral 9b/+ which made me made me want to go climb there. I visited the place for the first time last week when the temperature was 40 degrees. Although it was not very enjoyable, it gave me an opportunity to practice my methods and discover a great new route. I returned for two days to make some attempts in the first part (9a+). I made some good attempts and successfully passed the first boulder step [crux] (7C+), but unfortunately, I fell in the second boulder, not far from the final jug.
I then came back when the temperatures dropped and it was 40km/h of wind and it felt 10ยฐ so it changed completely. It [just so] happened on the first run of the day, everything was perfect, I was in good shape, well rested and I had good methods. I succeeded in the crux then I continued on this magnificent tufa to reach the chain, it was really pleasant I was able to appreciate the ascent on these last meters of colours. I really enjoyed climbing and that's what's cool. Now back to Grenoble for the start of the school year and back to the bouldering and training to get back in shape for the big project, the Pamphlet in Entraygues."
"It was Seb Bouin's video in Beyond integral 9b/+ which made me made me want to go climb there. I visited the place for the first time last week when the temperature was 40 degrees. Although it was not very enjoyable, it gave me an opportunity to practice my methods and discover a great new route. I returned for two days to make some attempts in the first part (9a+). I made some good attempts and successfully passed the first boulder step [crux] (7C+), but unfortunately, I fell in the second boulder, not far from the final jug.
I then came back when the temperatures dropped and it was 40km/h of wind and it felt 10ยฐ so it changed completely. It [just so] happened on the first run of the day, everything was perfect, I was in good shape, well rested and I had good methods. I succeeded in the crux then I continued on this magnificent tufa to reach the chain, it was really pleasant I was able to appreciate the ascent on these last meters of colours. I really enjoyed climbing and that's what's cool. Now back to Grenoble for the start of the school year and back to the bouldering and training to get back in shape for the big project, the Pamphlet in Entraygues."
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