2 February 2024

Sean Bailey opens Devilution (8C+)

Speaking on the Testpiece Climbing podcast, Sean Bailey reports that he has added a low start to the highball boulder Evilution Direct (8A) at the Buttermilks, calling it Devilution (8C+). The 8A goes from stacked pads and Sean basically added two super hard moves from a stand start. (c) John Kasaian

โ€Everyone that comes out of the Milks normally walks through that boulder, we were trying it late in the day, we brought like twenty pads out there to do it so I'm already like a little stressed. I really don't want to have to get all these pads out here again, and I turn around and I'm like oh my goodness, there's like thirty, forty people out here. I want to get this thing done, it's getting dark...โ€

Earlier in the winter season, Sean flashed Slasher (8B), did the FA of The Doors of Perception (8C) and repeated Lucid Dreaming (8C). More details can be found on Sean's Instagram. The 27-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years and in 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WC's.
17 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Zach Galla ticks Devilution (8C+)
Zach Galla has repeated Sean Baileyโ€™s Devilution (8C+) in Buttermilks, which includes a two-move sit start to the highball Evilution Direct (8A). The 25-year-oโ€ฆ
Sungsu Lee ticks Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Sungsu Lee, who has just signed up with six 8Cโ€™s and one 9a+ only in 2024, has completed Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. (c) Gum Jang Su Can you tell us moโ€ฆ
Hoyt and Shahar tick Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months โ€ฆ