Sans Complexe 9a FA by Erwan Legrand, 14

Erwan Legrand, son of Francois, one of the very best competition climbers in history, has made the FA of the 45 meter long Sans Complexe (9a) in Lourmarin. Additionally he has done three 8c+s, including José pine le gardien dans la cave (8c+), which he did last week.

Can you tell us more about your FA?
My dad bolted and tried it 15 years ago and he thought it was a real 9a but he never sent it. I have rated it 8c+/9a but I'm not sure. This route starts with a 7c. Then there is the first anchor where there is a brief bad rest, and then the second part is Perplexe (8b+) which is very hard for its grade. I have spent a lot of time [working towards] sending it. The third part is the shortest but also the most overhanging and intense. There is a 7C boulder problem which is very physical with pockets and also very aleatory. I screamed more than Adam Ondra when he sent Silence 😉😂. I never fall in the last part. When I managed the 8b+++++, I sent the rest of the route and that, I don't understand. I thought I will fall 20 times or more here! (My father fell more than 10 times on the final crux.) It's incredible.

How active is your father these days? (Interview is coming up)
We climb together in crag every other weekend, and sometimes in training during the week like yesterday when we trained in the climbing gym. Lately, he has not climbed a lot but he has bolted some routes in Buoux. Recently he has done the FA of a 7c+ in his style because it’s not too steep and very technical, but also in his anti-style because the route is short with a big dyno in the middle and after it's still really pumpy! 😉