Eva Hammelmüller does Sans Complexe (9a) - updated

Eva Hammelmüller, who the last four months has done seven routes 8c+ or 9a, has repeated Erwan Legrand’s Sans Complexe (9a) in Aix-en-Provence. ”J’ai pas les mots. [I have no words] When I first tried this route three days ago, the roof was wet, and I was scared of pulling hard on monos. However, I quickly got more and more confident on one-finger-underclings, and I had a really promising go yesterday! Today, with almost comletely dry holds, I sent the whole thing!! I agree with Erwan and Antoine regarding the grade - crazy hard 8c+ or soft 9a.” (c) Felix Mast

The 25-year-old Austrian has also the last week done José pine le gardien (8c), Pâques Express (8c) and during a night session Perplexe (8b+) to avoid the 20+ degree heat wave in southern France. “I checked out this cool route in the sun and, despite the heat, really enjoyed doing the moves. Not expecting anything, I went for a headlamp-sendgo in the evening, managed to climb quite well despite the headlamp (with which I usually struggle a lot) and sent the route! What a nice ending to a day that started with 3 bleeding fingers :D”

How can you best explain your great progress lately?
I think my decision to stop competing and focus on rock climbing lifted so much pressure from my shoulders and gave me more freedom to adapt my training to my needs. Plus, I can now invest all my time into getting physically stronger and preparing for my rock climbing projects. Physically, I feel maybe in the best shape of my life, and I hope I can realise that in further projects.