29 June 2024

Sam Weir does F the System (8C+)

Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. ”Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more about your ascent and the process that went into it?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely 😅 almost fell in every move but just kept going. I’ll miss this one.

I think it’s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with it’s 7B+ to 8B+ and you don’t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)
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